In Hot Water! ~ Adventures in Plumbing!

I've owned Wireless for nearly 10 years and I've never had hot water aboard.  The original Paloma califont was removed a long time ago.

I've begun the process of installing a new califont,  which will include installing the deck flue within a dorade box built years ago ( https://kiwi-nonsuch.blogspot.com/2013/08/dorade-box-construction-project.html); installing the califont, and plumbing water and gas.

25mm teak board to be re-sawn into 2 dorade tops.  A local mill have offered to do this with a very large bandsaw.  10-12mm isn't ideal, but the top is under no stress and this stuff is EXPENSIVE!

Update 13/7/21:

So the scale of this project is setting in, and it's expanding.  My original freshwater pump is beginning to play up, and I think it may be ready for replacement. I figure it's time to refresh the system entirely as some new buteline tubing is required for hot water.

I've purchased this tidy unit, it's a pre mounted pump and accumulator.   It even has wiring internal to the panel.   It comes with a strainer as well.  It's a Seaflo 42, which has a bypass valve to further reduce pulsing.

The old pump - possibly original

Space for new pump and accumulator

Done! Very tricky working under the head sink, little to no room to crimp fittings and wires.  Improvised with some flexible hose.

To Do:

1. Fabricate flue pipe to pass from cabinet above galley through the deck into dorade box. (DONE - I bought a 4" to 3" exhaust adaptor from an automotive supplier and applied couple coats of epoxy paint)

2. Remove patch, pass flue through hole to measure and cut.

3. Wrap flue with heat wrap, then secure in place with high temp epoxy putty.

Update 2/8/21:

So the outlet of the califont when mounted in place is offset 12mm to port of the hole in the deck.  This is a problem, because it is enough of a misalignment to prevent any solid flue from connecting the 2 points.  

I happened across a product that is used in the trucking industry.  It is a stainless steel flexible pipe that comes in a range of diameters.

This will allow me to position the califont roughly 300mm from the ceiling, and pass the flexi tubing through the deck, bending it as required to land in the reducer I have created for the outlet.  I'll position the dorade box, mark and cut the excess tubing off with a hacksaw.  I want as much protruding as possible, despite having a baffle in the dorade...obviously seawater getting in would be bad news.

I think standard exhaust header wrap or equivalent insulation will reduce the liklihood of anything getting too hot in the cabinet above the califont.  The temperature of the gases leaving the califont, and the corresponding heat in the flue is a matter of conjecture.  Clearly LPG is being burned, but the heating is sporadic and very short lived in an on-demand heater.  Even 10 seconds of running the hot water is unlikely to heat the flue to the point where it could cause a burn or a melted cup.  Still, wrapping the entire thing in insulation is cheap insurance.

4. Fabricate top panel for dorade box, install baffle, heatshield, vent, and drain hole and prepare for installation on deck. Screw and plug the box (Done)

 

Heat reflective lining as this is a hot air exhaust 

Teak oil to protect it for now.

Drain holes

Pocket drilled holes

5. Secure dorade box to deck with 3M 5200 and pocket screws.

6. Install califont on bulkhead through cabinet. Because the califont's top mount is a screw pocket, I will need to mark its position on the bulkhead,  then use some plastic or tracing paper to set out the screw in the correct position (like a picture hook). The bottom screws are simply driven through holes in the chassis. DONE!!

Update: 4/8/21

The first guaranteed sunny day meant an early start before work ~ time to pull the deck plug and get this chimney installed!

Plug is gone, not far from the reducer to the deck

The stainless steel flex-tube comes by the meter!  You can see how it can conform to the offset

I used JB Weld High Temp (600F) epoxy putty above, below, and around the opening as a barrier

Cut to size with a hacksaw

Three layers of the high temp putty, in between the top and bottom deck laminate, around the base of the flue, and another layer blended up the flue. *The repaired gelcoat cracks/epoxy will vanish when I apply non-skid in the spring.

TIPS! 

~ Sand the SS pipe and the deck with 80 grit to get a good bond.

~ Warm the putty in the sun before trying to knead it and blend it.

~ Bring a cup of warm water and wet your fingers as you roll the putty into a long thin snake, and work it down into the gap and up the flue.  I continued to work it for a while until it was very smooth and uniform, and sealed well around the pipe and deck.

I also fitted the dorade box with 3M 5200 Fast Cure.  I taped it off around the bottom outside edge to keep the 5200 off the teak.  I set it temporarily in place and marked the spot with pencil marks.

Matching set!

I weighed the box down with a diving belt while it set up but LEARN FROM MY EXPERIENCE! - Make sure you have some shims or blocking to keep the dorade from sliding down the cabin top before the glue sets.  It is a substantial curve and the mass is both straight down and off at 45degrees...the box will slide if you don't lock it in place.

7. Replace water pump and accumulator (Done), plumb new buteline pipe to inlet of califont, then hot water pipe to galley and head.

8. Run gas line from LPG locker to stove and califont.  Make connections at both ends and then remove original hoses.

9. Varnish/ oil dorade boxes.

10. Modify and install trim from galley top to underside of califont to hide hoses.

Update 22/9/21

Dont get me started on brass fittings.   Did you know that there is a BSPP and a BSPT? Well the P stands for parallel and the T for tapered.  I had to find a fitting that was 1/2" BSPP to 3/8" BSPT. I am waiting for it to arrive to connect gas line to califont. 

Update 19/10/21

FINISHED!!

Plumbed and working, I just needed to build a cover over the hoses to tidy it all up.

If you're wondering, the satin finish comes from 6 coats of gun stock oil.

Galvanic Isolator Fun!

Although my marina employs isolating transformers for shorepower,  I wanted the assurance of having total galvanic isolation.

I purchased a Zinc Saver isolator rated up to 100amps (double what is required). 

I will install it about a foot from the shorepower socket on the GREEN or 'earth' wire.

I've had to fix a plywood block to the hull side in the engine room to fasten the isolator securely.  The block is 3"x4" and is held in place with 3M 5200.

I wanted to test the unit before installation.  Here is the process courtesy of Galvanic Isolator UK

Testing a Galvanic Isolator with Stud connections

To test a Galvanic isolator with connecting studs...

1). Set the multimeter to the Semiconductor Test or Diode Test position, and attach one crocodile clip to each stud. Wait 5 seconds then note the reading on the meter. The reading will typically be between 0.9 (Volts) and 1.6 (Volts). 

2). Now reverse the connections. Wait 5 seconds then note the reading. Your Galvanic isolator is OK if the reading is similar (within about 10%) of the previous reading.

My readings were 9.7v and 9.4v in either direction. 

I'll install it by carefully cutting the outer cover, cutting the green wire and fixing heat shrink marine terminals to both ends.  Fix the terminals to the posts and it's done.

Brand new '62!

I'm thinking ahead now to creating some new cabin cushions.  I think I'll find some thicker/firmer foam and fabric to brighten and modernise the look.

Of course, poverty being the mother of invention I've been scouring the country for a sewing machine to replace my Adler (Old Adler)  (sold some years ago in a downsize).

I've found this 1962 Pfaff 145, a medium duty commercial machine built for canvas and heavy fabrics.

I plan to mechanically restore it and replace the high speed clutch motor with a low speed/high torque servo motor.  This is a conversion I did with the Adler as well.

The table will need a coat of paint on the top, frame, and pedals.

An initial cleaning of the machine with kerosene before pulling it to pieces for accurate setup will complete the project.

Update: 22/8/21

I've decided to peel off the old laminate and paint the wood surface below  Heavy sanding and wood plugs in all the old holes. Seal with epoxy, filler, primer and paint.

I wanted to use paint that I had at hand, so the top is gloss white enamel and the frame is GOLD! This will take some getting used to.

Installed 550w DC servo motor.  I love these motors...quiet, programmable, and HUGE torque.

12/9/21

It's complete and working! I needed to time the needle, but as you can see it's now stitching wonderfully!

Live aboard Luxury

Because I live onboard 2-3 nights per week, a good Wifi connection is important (to follow the Nonsuch forum of course). The marina signal is fast but weak due to my distance from the transmitter.

This unit, the Alfa Wifi Camp Pro 2, includes an antenna to capture distant signals and amplify them within the boat on a local network. 

Nice clear signal! Connection is reliable and much faster!