Deck 2014

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It's been my intention since I bought the boat to re-finish the deck.  I am hoping that the summer of 2014 will provide me the opportunity to do this.

It involves minor repairs to dings and cracks, compounding the deck , and then covering the non-skid areas with Kiwi-Grip.

This will be preceded by re-bedding the deck hardware and some modifications to the running rigging.

I'll use this post to track it all over the next few months.

I am beginning the process by re-finishing the limited amount of teak on the deck.

Seen here is the restoration of the teak "eyebrow", which involves stripping and sanding, epoxy-stabilising the bungs, and 10 coats of varnish.

The first non-thinned coat of varnish.  The wood was left rough to help the varnish bind.  The first coat was thinned 50% and effectively soaked into the grain.  The texture will vanish by the 6th or 7th coat.

UPDATE 16/12/13

I have applied a 3rd coat (3/10) to the eyebrow, and I have successfully removed both hand rails in preparation for restoration at home.

I had previously stripped down the areas of the handrail that I could reach.  Note the 3rd coat on the dorade box.

Removal of the handrails was fairly straightforward, with the most difficult element removing the now-brittle plastic trim plugs from the interior ceiling.  I will source and replace all of these.

It should also be noted that the aft-most screws (1 pair) are located behind the removable panels that sit beneath the winches and (in my case) the rope clutches.

Once removed, I scraped the remaining sealant off the deck and sanded it clean.  I them applied some duct tape to seal the holes until such time as I ready them for installation (I'll track this carefully for you, but I intend on over-drilling and epoxy filling the holes).

UPDATE 21/12/13

Handrails stripped back completely, sanded to 320 grit and sealed with 2 coats of West System Epoxy.  This is to be followed by 4 coats of varnish.

Back on board, coat #6 is now complete...it's slow going.  Note the mistake (?) I made initially in sealing the teak screw bungs with epoxy.  The varnish did not bring the rest of the eyebrow to the same shade as those epoxied areas.  It doesn't look out of place mind you, but I do hope the epoxy lightens.

Update 29/12/13

As the year draws to a close, I am making good headway on the teak deck trim:

Here are the completed grab rails, with 2 coats of epoxy and 5 coats of varnish

I am installing 4-line deck organisers from Spinlock in the same general location as the existing units.  I want to keep the lines elevated above the deck, so the first step is to raise the deck organisers off the deck with spacers.  I happen to have some scrap 1-inch thick teak, so here is how I fabricated the spacers.

1. Cut the spacers roughly to shape, in my case 1 cm wider all around than the Spinlocks

Cut out with a jigsaw, shaped with an orbital sander...Norm Abrams would have used a band-saw and a spindle sander...but alas...

2. Because the cabin top is curved (in many ways) I used dividers to transfer the curve to the underside of the spacer.  I used a wood rasp and LOTS of elbow grease to remove the right amount of material in the right spot. Then I eased the top with a round-over router bit.

Note the formed underside, which conforms to the cabin top.  The bottom looks routed as well in this photo, but it isn't.

UPDATE 5/1/14

Happy New Year to everyone!

I have completed the preparation of the teak blocks that will reside under the deck organisers and raise the lines a full 1" off the deck.  The finish is two coats of West System epoxy and 4 coats of Goldspar varnish. Because the spacer blocks will be through-bolted into the deck, but the organisers themselves only screwed (securely) to the blocks, it will be possible to remove the organisers and re-finish the blocks in years to come without much drama.  Without this concept I would paint the blocks, as re-varnishing would be a nightmare.

3/3/14 - I have elected to paint these teak spacers with white epoxy enamel. This is to keep maintenance to a minimum. 

UPDATE 10/1/14

I have completed the refinishing of the 7 portlights.  3 coats of a special metal paint, lightly sanding between each coat, and tremendous attention paid to thinning, given the heat I was working in at the time.

The next task relates to the deck gelcoat.  You all may recall that I was planning to paint both the gelcoat (Interlux Perfection) and the non-skid (KiwiGrip).

I have now decided that the smooth gelcoat has plenty of life left, its just buried under a lot of chaulky and dull UV damage.

I am going to hit the entire smooth part of the deck with my power buffers (I have two, a regular rotary buffer and a dual-action buffer) and some 3M compound....as always...watch this space.

BEFORE

UPDATE 14/01/14

As I scour the planet in search of the elusive hangar bolt/lag screws for the hand rail re-installation, I've moved on to other projects on "the list".  I have had success using my dual action polisher with a compounding foam pad and 3M heavy oxidation restorer/wax.  This product is a one-step system that compounds and polishes, but I will likely follow up with additional waxing.

Update 27/1/14

Completed compounding and waxing of the cockpit and cabin top sides. 

The remaining work is all slow, hand work. 

Polishing continues around the deck and toe-rails, using a 3" pad for the DA polisher. 

UPDATE 9/2/14

Over-drilling, routing and epoxy-filling the screw holes continues. 

Update 15/2/14

I've finished with the smooth deck surfaces, with 3 coats of paste wax on all surfaces. Here are some photos. The bulwarks were the hardest part, polishing and and waxing behind all of those stanchions.

NEW PHOTOS!!!

Although a bit under-exposed, I included this photo because is shows Mount Maunganui in the background, a dormant volcano.

UPDATE 18/2/14

I want to expand a bit on the polishing process.  I use the following Dual-Action (Random Orbital) polisher from Kestral. 

It is as small as a mini-angle grinder and can easily be used with one hand.  I have 5" and 3" backing pads and foam pads in various grades from Lake Country.

Once you have the polisher and the pads, you need to decide the following:

"How badly oxidized is my finish?"

If the surface has no reflectivity, and looks like a coat of flat white paint, it's pretty bad.  If white powder comes off on your fingertips it is VERY bad.

This is the sun destroying the top layer of your gelocat, and you must remove it.  Wet-sanding even with 4000grit paper should be reserved for a terribly-weathered and scratched surface.

In most cases, a proper fibreglass rubbing compound will give you the shine you want.  Many companies, such as 3M, make a "One-Step" polish/wax, but I can tell you that this is ONLY for mildly dull finishes.  These "combo" polishes do not cut as aggresively as a true rubbing compound, and will never give you the results I've had here.  I used the 3M One-Step product but changed when I realized that it wasn't producing a good result.

This is the brand I have used, made by Septone (Australian?):

I used a Yellow Lake Country compounding foam pad for the compound, then a black pad for the wax.  In some areas I used an automotive swirl remover to get some additional gloss  For this step I used an orange pad.

You clean the pads regularly (every 10-15minutes) by turning them upside down and touching them lightly with a stiff brush while they spin.  Make sure you are downwind, this produces a lot of dust.

Dual action polishers are not like rotary polishers, they don't try to break your wrist.  You can easliy control them.  There are hundreds of videos and articles about how to polish boats on the Internet, so I won't go into it here, but you must understand that compound is liquid sandpaper.  You work it around in an established overlapping pattern until the grit breaks down.  As you make your last few passes you ease up on the pressure you apply, letting the weight of the machine do all the work.  In fact, you never really press down on the machine, just enough to keep the pad flat on the surface.

A tip...take the handle off the machine, it makes it harder to get close to the deck and to the various fittings.  I ran the machine between speed #3 and #4 all the time, this kept the pad cool and kept the polish from cooking into the foam.

Foam pads can be washed with dish detergent and really hot water.  I washed mine at the end of every day.  Do not let the surface of the foam pad load up with polish, use your brush a lot (I bought a stiff dishwashing brush with a long handle).



UPDATE 25/2/14

I am at the point of installing my rope clutch upgrade.  I am increasing the number of clutches from 4 to 8, with 10mm unit on the outside port and starboard, and 8mm units inside for the reefing lines.

The forward bolts are difficult to reach as they do not fall over the removable ceiling panels, but they are far from impossible.

Unlike the 4 existing clutches, I am not relying solely on washers, instead I am constructing backing plates from epoxy-coated marine plywood.

Here are a couple of photos from the work in progress.

L-R: Spare Halyard, Halyard, Tack Reef 1, Tack Reef 2, Clew Reef1, Clew Reef 2, Choker, Topping Lift

Update 10/3/14

I've installed the 4 rope clutches using meticulous installation practice, including over drilling and epoxy filling, and using butyl tape to seal them. 

Here are some photos:

A couple pics of the completed units, all that remains is to replace the reefing lines and install my new deck organisers.  

Butyl tape is very time consuming, but it's a proven alternative to caulking.  Remember to wrap the screw head inside the clutch as well. 

I worked this until the voids were all filled. On the first round of tightening, I got considerable oozing out the sides, so the initial thickness is adequate. 

Also, remember to chamfer the drilled hole to create an o-ring effect. 

So...how do you get a washer and a nut on the forward machine screws?  The ones that are NOT in the ceiling cut-out? They can only just be reached with your fingers. 

Here's how:

1.  Put a tiny bit of butyl tape on the underside of the fender washer, this will hold it in place on the underside of the deck. 

2.  Place a small bit of tape on the backside of a close spanner, as seen here:

Place the nut in the pocket of the spanner, carefully hold it square under the screw, and turn the screw slowly from the top perhaps 3 times until the thread catches. I realize turning the screw isn't ideal, but this is the only way, these screws were 6 inches past the forward extent of the ceiling opening.

I am now simultaneously overhauling the winches and preparing to install the travellers. 

Update 10/4/14

Vas is das?

 4 1-inch for the new deck organizers, 8 7/8 inch for the old holes.

It is a collection of headliner plugs painted to match the interior. Now that's attention to detail. 

UPDATE 8/12/14

Attaching grab rails on my own vexed me until I came up with the following method:

1. Prepare the holes (over-drill-epoxy).
2. Tape over the holes in the ceiling liner to catch the majority of the dust
3. Use a drill guide to drill perpendicular to the deck
4. Drill and then counter-sink by using a countersink in reverse. This avoids tearing the gelcoat.
5. Install one screw at each station all the way up, so they protrude about 30mm
6. Countersink the holes in the grab rail **critical!  This allows the screw to find the hole
7. Apply butyl tape or compound to the bottom of each station. Butyl tape is much cleaner, and I now use it for everything
8. Carefully position the rail on the sharp screw heads and push down a wee bit, this and the countersink hold it in place   If you pick just the right sized drill bit the screws will be held firmly in the deck
9. Starting in the middle, tighten each screw in batches of 6 turns, going from one to the next
10. When firmly set, install all the remaining screws

You're done, and you owe nobody any favours.