I've begun the process of installing a new califont, which will include installing the deck flue within a dorade box built years ago ( https://kiwi-nonsuch.blogspot.com/2013/08/dorade-box-construction-project.html); installing the califont, and plumbing water and gas.
Update 13/7/21:
So the scale of this project is setting in, and it's expanding. My original freshwater pump is beginning to play up, and I think it may be ready for replacement. I figure it's time to refresh the system entirely as some new buteline tubing is required for hot water.
I've purchased this tidy unit, it's a pre mounted pump and accumulator. It even has wiring internal to the panel. It comes with a strainer as well. It's a Seaflo 42, which has a bypass valve to further reduce pulsing.
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| The old pump - possibly original |
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| Space for new pump and accumulator |
To Do:
1. Fabricate flue pipe to pass from cabinet above galley through the deck into dorade box. (DONE - I bought a 4" to 3" exhaust adaptor from an automotive supplier and applied couple coats of epoxy paint)
2. Remove patch, pass flue through hole to measure and cut.
3. Wrap flue with heat wrap, then secure in place with high temp epoxy putty.
Update 2/8/21:
So the outlet of the califont when mounted in place is offset 12mm to port of the hole in the deck. This is a problem, because it is enough of a misalignment to prevent any solid flue from connecting the 2 points.
I happened across a product that is used in the trucking industry. It is a stainless steel flexible pipe that comes in a range of diameters.
This will allow me to position the califont roughly 300mm from the ceiling, and pass the flexi tubing through the deck, bending it as required to land in the reducer I have created for the outlet. I'll position the dorade box, mark and cut the excess tubing off with a hacksaw. I want as much protruding as possible, despite having a baffle in the dorade...obviously seawater getting in would be bad news.
I think standard exhaust header wrap or equivalent insulation will reduce the liklihood of anything getting too hot in the cabinet above the califont. The temperature of the gases leaving the califont, and the corresponding heat in the flue is a matter of conjecture. Clearly LPG is being burned, but the heating is sporadic and very short lived in an on-demand heater. Even 10 seconds of running the hot water is unlikely to heat the flue to the point where it could cause a burn or a melted cup. Still, wrapping the entire thing in insulation is cheap insurance.
4. Fabricate top panel for dorade box, install baffle, heatshield, vent, and drain hole and prepare for installation on deck. Screw and plug the box (Done)
Heat reflective lining as this is a hot air exhaust
Teak oil to protect it for now.
Drain holes
Pocket drilled holes
5. Secure dorade box to deck with 3M 5200 and pocket screws.
6. Install califont on bulkhead through cabinet. Because the califont's top mount is a screw pocket, I will need to mark its position on the bulkhead, then use some plastic or tracing paper to set out the screw in the correct position (like a picture hook). The bottom screws are simply driven through holes in the chassis. DONE!!
Update: 4/8/21
The first guaranteed sunny day meant an early start before work ~ time to pull the deck plug and get this chimney installed!
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| Plug is gone, not far from the reducer to the deck |
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| The stainless steel flex-tube comes by the meter! You can see how it can conform to the offset |
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| I used JB Weld High Temp (600F) epoxy putty above, below, and around the opening as a barrier |
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| Cut to size with a hacksaw |
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| Three layers of the high temp putty, in between the top and bottom deck laminate, around the base of the flue, and another layer blended up the flue. *The repaired gelcoat cracks/epoxy will vanish when I apply non-skid in the spring. |
TIPS!
~ Sand the SS pipe and the deck with 80 grit to get a good bond.
~ Warm the putty in the sun before trying to knead it and blend it.
~ Bring a cup of warm water and wet your fingers as you roll the putty into a long thin snake, and work it down into the gap and up the flue. I continued to work it for a while until it was very smooth and uniform, and sealed well around the pipe and deck.
I also fitted the dorade box with 3M 5200 Fast Cure. I taped it off around the bottom outside edge to keep the 5200 off the teak. I set it temporarily in place and marked the spot with pencil marks.
I weighed the box down with a diving belt while it set up but LEARN FROM MY EXPERIENCE! - Make sure you have some shims or blocking to keep the dorade from sliding down the cabin top before the glue sets. It is a substantial curve and the mass is both straight down and off at 45degrees...the box will slide if you don't lock it in place.
7. Replace water pump and accumulator (Done), plumb new buteline pipe to inlet of califont, then hot water pipe to galley and head.
10. Modify and install trim from galley top to underside of califont to hide hoses.
Update 22/9/21
Dont get me started on brass fittings. Did you know that there is a BSPP and a BSPT? Well the P stands for parallel and the T for tapered. I had to find a fitting that was 1/2" BSPP to 3/8" BSPT. I am waiting for it to arrive to connect gas line to califont.
Update 19/10/21
FINISHED!!
Plumbed and working, I just needed to build a cover over the hoses to tidy it all up.
If you're wondering, the satin finish comes from 6 coats of gun stock oil.
you certainly do professional work on that boat. wish you lived closer--we have all sorts of stuff that needs doing...
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