Wednesday, 14 August 2013

Interior Woodwork - Refinish

I am on a quest to bring some life to the interior joinery, which is a bit sad as compared to the recently-refinished sole.

I tested a polyurethane but found it too much...too glossy. 

I have now settled on the following technique:

1.  I clean the wood with mineral spirits and a microfibre cloth. 
2. I apply at least two coats of a hard furniture wax (Briwax).
3. And here's my secret...I buff the wax once dry with 0000 gauge steel wool  ***(Now synthetic 18/7/13) with the grain, not a rag or bonnet. 

The finish is very subtle but very refined and deep. 

Before

Wax

Waxed and dried

Ready to buff  **SEE UPDATE BELOW - STEEL WOOL NOT GOOD FOR BOATS - SEEMS OBVIOUS NOW...


Finished - 2 coats


The alternative is a tremendous amount of varnishing and sanding, and frankly this treatment yields a beautiful result. 

I'll photograph the process as I go, but as all of my work happens in the middle of the night (2.8 young kids and a demanding career), the photos won't be great. 



UPDATE! 18/7/13

The preponderance of evidence would seem to indicate that 'real' steel wool is not a good idea inside a boat, as the tiny shards of wool will eventually rust and could make a mess wherever they end up.  For this reason I am switching my technique to use ultra-fine abrasive pads, which mimic steel wool

Bronze wool is simply not available in New Zealand, all of our sheep are steel.


With the new "fake steel wool" in hand I applied 4 coats of wax to the large bulkhead panel facing aft, and two coats everywhere else from the companionway to the head door along the aft starboard corner. 
The finish is a curious but wonderful blend of satin and deep gloss and the effort is made less with the pads to both apply and buff. 




21/7/13 - UPDATE!!

The waxing continues up the starboard side toward the forward cabin.  The interior surfaces of the head an shower, as well as the woodwork around the galley and tops of all shelves will be done with a satin polyurethane/varnish.

4 coats of hard paste wax




UPDATE 24/7/13

The waxing is complete!  3 coats on most surfaces, with 5 coats on the main panels.  I plan to let them cure for a day or two and then give them a light go with my one of my three power polishers (I'm not sure which yet, I have a HD angle polisher, a random-orbital polisher, and a simple car polisher).

I am really happy with the decision to go with wax, it reminds me of my old baseball glove, well worn, but always treated with a bit of lanolin...that uneven but striking gloss.



Next? ~ On to the comparatively-small amount of satin varnishing required around the galley, and in the head/shower interior.


Update 27/7/13 - Galley area completed


Big stove polish...to pretty to cook on.


UPDATE ~ 1/8/13 - Refinishing the liner battens

I am beginning the final (?) phase of the internal joinery refinishing...the rehabilitation of the horizontal battens/slats that line the hull in 3 places.  The main reason to remove them is due to the severely-corroded bronze screws that have discolored the wood.  

2 interesting facts:

  1. The battens are western red cedar...not teak.
  2. You can tell a corroded screw is bronze because it goes pink.


Step #1 ~ Removal & cleaning of the liner

Before removal, showing stained timber, rotten bronze screws, and grubby liner behind.



At least 6 screws broke at the head and required drilling out...

Step #2 - Sand the battens down to bare wood
Rough sand

Final sand & clean up the screw holes as best possible, but some of the black stain is deep


UPDATE 10/8/13 ~ Final works on battens

While these battens have yet to be cleaned and varnished, you can see a comparison of the old versus new fasteners

I am using 316 SS screws with cup washers to both bind the cedar better and to hide some of the staining around the screw holes.

Forward berth battens, screws changed but not yet varnished.


...And the final product!

Sanded bare, 2 coats of maple stain/varnish, and 2 coats of satin polyurethane.


Bottom 2 battens not installed (I need to find my stubby square drive screwdriver~too cramped for cordless driver)


UPDATE ~ 14/8/13 ~ Companionway trim & grab rails

The last wee bit of interior joinery refinishing is the trim around the companionway and the two single grab rails.  All of this teak is badly weathered and grubby.

I was really worried about sanding inside the cabin and making an unholy mess, so I bought myself a heat gun and a few scrapers.  This has been an excellent purchase as the work has gone very quickly.  It takes very little time to peel away the varnish (I do think it's marine varnish in this location).

I intend to clean the stipped teak and lighten it with a teak cleaner/brightener kit I purchased, then apply 4-5 coats of marine spar varnish.

Before any work was done

During the stripping process


Post stripping with heat gun


Done 21/8/13





Aside from ongoing additional coats of wax, this concludes the interior joinery 'refresh'.  I can now move on to various other projects.

I may well be re-installing the cabin dining table in days/weeks to come, but I will be painting the bilge first (obviously), and perhaps putting a coat of satin polyurethane on the table while I have it at home.



Monday, 12 August 2013

A Bit of History

Too many technical posts recently, here is a bit of personal history.  My paternal grandfather was a big yachtsman, and I have photos here that show how the Morrisons have been at sea for nearly 70 years!


1944 - On leave from the War  - Grampa Bob is on the far right in the t-shirt - Off the coast of Halifax NS


Serving aboard a Corvette in WWII...now THAT'S a windlass!!


 
HMCS Rosthern (K169)

At the shipyard~ Port Arthur Ontario 1940





1964 - Lake Ontario 6m racing





Ice racing in the winter


My San Juan 24 "Jelly Bean" off Salt Spring Island BC Canada 1997-2004
**See bottom of this post for more on Jelly Bean - over a 3-4 year period I gutted her, compeltely re-built the interior, painted her topsides by hand, built a sewing machine to cope with Dacron and sewed by hand all of the sails you see here.  I wired her from scratch, replaced the mast...etc etc.



My Nonsuch30U#400 2012-Present - New Zealand


"Jelly Bean" ~ a San Juan 24

I bought this boat very cheaply way back in 1997, and over the next few years I rebuilt her from stem to stern.

A much younger me, during her very first haul-out (not my dogs)

Topsides painted with roll-tip method, new mast and rigging, and outboard (for you guys from Canada, this is the Goldstream Marina on Vancouver Island)

Interior completely gutted.

Used the "tick-stick" method to create a structural bulkhead

Complete construction from bare hull, including ribs, floor, lockers etc

Stringers for the battens and insulation added, chainplates all cut from stainless sheet by hand

All cabinetry and joinery done by me, upholestery by my first wife.


I actually learned how to soak rattan overnight and stretch it onto a cabinet door frame. 

Created a panel with 12v DC and 110v AC for tools and charging

I modified an old sewing machine with a reduction gear for sailmaking

...and I sewed all my own sails

Then I built a tender to keep busy in the winter

I would have sold Jelly Bean for a tenth of what I invested in her, and I estimate I put 2000hrs into her.  A labour of love. 

She was featured in the January 2003 issue of Pacific Yachting magazine.



Sunday, 11 August 2013

"Creak...Creak...Hushhhh"

Walking over the cabin sole I have found myself tracing the same steps, those that don't incur the creaking of the sole panels as they rub against the liner on the sides and the floor ribs athwart-ships

Having the panels out for refinishing  recently allowed me the lateral thinking to find a solution. 

That solution came by way of some very affordable (60 cents/meter) closed cell foam weather-stripping. This is available everywhere, and has a peel-away sticky side.


Be sure to clean the surfaces well, and run the foam tape around the perimeter and across the ribs. 

The results were instant, with a silent and somewhat-cushioned feel to the sole. Very pleased!


The placement need not be perfect, but must be in the load-bearing area of the contact patch of sole and base. 





Saturday, 10 August 2013

New Web Location!

www.kiwiboatowner.com

You will be automatically-redirected if you go to the blogger site.