Cockpit table restoration

The teak table that hinges upward from my Edson steering pedestal is made of solid teak.  Over the years it has had successive coats of varnish, but no sanding/refinishing   

As a result, the finish is very thick, but uneven.  The varnish has become quite orange.

Here is a photo of the table removed from the boat, sitting on my kitchen bench:

You can see how proud the wood grain is, and how the pores of the teak have gone black.

I started by stripping and scraping 95% of the varnish off, then spent an evening sanding the table back to a smooth surface.  I'm using plain old spar varnish, because this table resides under a cover, and a flawless finish is more important to me than durability.

I should have some "in progress" photos soon.

Update 2/12/13

Work is underway - a lot of sanding

UPDATE 13/12/13

7 coats of varnish, sanding lightly with 320grit paper between each coat.  Varying temperatures and conditions have caused me difficulty, as I have had to thin or not thin on a 'best guess' basis.  I will need 2 or 3 more perfect applications to get the result I want (10 coats total).  It is extraordinarliy-difficult to get a mirror-smooth finish...I don't know how the pros do it.

UPDATE 17/12/13

DONE!

...and that's 10 coats

...mandatory before and after...

Re-naming

I will be re-naming the boat over Christmas during haul-out.  The original name, when she was sailed in Texas, was "Effervescence", and this was changed to "Kiss Kiss" (after the Roald Dahl book).

The unstayed rig is very unique here in NZ, and I wanted to re-name her to play on this.  Here is what I have come up with:

Simpson-Lawrence SL Hyspeed Windlass Restoration

The manual windlass at the bow of my boat has always bothered me.  I never use it, but it was in bad visual condition, and being so obvious, I think it said something to the passing public...something like "this boat is in decline".

So with the brilliant weather that November brings in the Southern Hemisphere, I have decided to restore it.

For some unknown reason, I failed to take a "before" photo, so I found one on the internet that represents the condition it was in before I started:

Thank you to the owner...whoever you are...mine was actually worse, paint coming off in large flakes.

I will shortly upload an "after" picture, which will show the result of careful disassembly, stripping, sanding, priming and painting.  It has turned out very nice.


For anyone considering the same project, here is a link to the original owner's manual:

http://www.lewmar.com/%5Cassets%5Cimg%5Cdataset%5CManual-S-L%20Hyspeed-D1021-1.pdf

UPDATE 7/12/13

It's all back together, looks good. I caulked the seams after this photo was taken. 

Painting the rest of it...

I suppose once you venture down this track, you are somewhat obligated to see it through.

I've begun painting from the engine room bulkhead back, pulling bundled wires and hoses away as I go, cleaning and scrubbing with a mixture of Simple Green and Sugar Soap.  I'm still priming everything with the magic sauce I found earlier (Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 primer...which I am convinced you could use to prime a pan of bacon fat).

Painting around the engine is challenging, and will eventually require specialist tools, such as a paint-brush with the handle cut off, an extended roller, and several artist's brushes.

One coat of primer.  Note the vertical face 90 degrees opposite the Racor filter.  This will be the location of my new fuel-polishing/fuel redundancy system.

UPDATE 11/11/13

A HUGE amount of work...just priming it all is almost too much, to think I have to go back twice more with the top coat is unthinkable.  I am using an artist's brush and long handled brushes to reach up under the cockpit coaming and get around all the wiring and hoses...wow....don't do this...live vicariously through me...

Update 20/11/13

First coat of gloss enamel on the starboard aft section...very awkward and tedious work.   Note the original battleship grey colour to the right of the autopilot ram. 

UPDATE 2/12/13

I can't quantify or prove this, but I swear with 50% of the area under the cockpit now painted, particularly the area around the engine, the noise coming from the engine has been dramatically-reduced.  The thickness of the primer and 2 coats of enamel must be functioning somewhat like the noise-reducing paints you see advertised (Silent Running) to quell vibration.  It is really quite obvious.
I am beginning to wonder if actually using the proper noise-reducing paint wouldn't be such a bad idea.  It's not cheap, but neither is the purpose-built sound-insulation.

Dorade box construction project

I've got a situation on deck where the starboard dorade box is looking a bit tired and dated, and on the port side all I have is a temporarily-patched hole where once there was a califont stack.



Existing dorade.  The spider cracking on the deck is made more noticable by the application of Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure - a wonderful gift from the gods.  Won't see it under the KiwiGrip and Perfection!

I have decided to use the existing dorade as a pattern to create two new boxes from some teak timber I located locally. 

The first step was to create some patterns from the existing, using a set of dividers to scribe the arc of the fore and aft pieces, which follow the cabin top. 

These three patterns represent the base of the dorade box.  The end piece is interchangeable between fore and aft.  I was surprised to find that the starboard and port faces are almost perfectly-vertical, but the end pieces (fore/aft) are canted inward slightly (perhaps 5 degrees).  This means that the long side pieces are actually parallelograms, not rectangles.

I did not measure the top piece, as this will simply be constructed to fit the base.  I will say however, that I will be using teak, not lexan, for the construction of the lids.  I know why they used lexan originally (there is a solar-powered vent inside the dorade), but it isn't a good look, and I beleive properly-costructed passive ventilation will be better than the current set-up.  The solar powered vent does not function (they ALL breakdown eventually as the rechargeable batteries wear out), and the intake vent itself is far too small.

I am preparing to use a scoop like this one:

 Update 24/8/13 - Construction

The teak timber I am using is probably thicket than required, but it's what I had and it will be extremely-robust.

A very good quality jigsaw makes short work of cutting out the pieces once they have been laid out with the patterns

You may see 5 end pieces instead of 4...there will actually be six when I'm done, 2 of which will be shortened vertically to become baffles.

You pay good money for teak flour at the shops...don't throw it in the bin!

Initial fit-up, lots of sanding and fine-shaping to be done.

What the picture above doesn't capture are the multitude of compound angles and miters involved with building this dorade box.  Because the end slope inward, and because the cabin top is curved, almost all edges needed some form of shaping.

I'm sure there is a tool in the New Yankee Workshop to do this, but I reply on my razor sharp hand plane as I always have:

Did you know that Ron Hickman, the inventor of the WorkMate, also designed the Lotus Elan?  Black & Decker have sold over 30 million of them around the world.  I have owned 3 myself.

For some unknown reason I touched the piece with wet fingers just before taking this photo...I suppose it was to show you the grain...yeah..that's it...

UPDATE: 23/10/13

I've glued one box together and checked the fit on the boat.  It needs some tweaking and a lot of sanding, but given the various compound angles and such, I think it has worked out fairly well so far.  Now I need to buy a dozen teak plugs and devise a method of securing the boxes to the deck.

These halyards and reefing lines will be shifted inboard a bit when I install the new deck
organizer

Refinishing salon table

When I realised the salon/dining table was going back in (although not having it creates a lot of space, it seems necessary to have), I decided to refinish it.

I'll post some pictures of the process, but its essentially sand 320 grit, 4 coats varnish (gloss), light sand between coats. 

Update: 1/10/13

Attention to detail:  Refinishing the hardware associated with the table, though aged and worn, it shines up pretty well.  You will note that I have revised my methodology to satin-finish.  Once again gloss didn't look right in the cabin.

There are a lot of surfaces, lots of careful sanding and prep.



The old hardware is worn, but it shines up well.  Even the screw heads benefit from a few seconds on a polishing wheel


 

Painting the 'nether-regions'

Of all the tough jobs on a boat, painting bilges and the interior of lockers might be the most un-rewarding.  Perhaps this is because nobody but you will ever know how much toil went into this...who looks in your bilge?

Most places in the world, when confronted with this need, you would walk into your local supply house and pick-up a gallon of Interlux Bilgekote or Pettit EZ-Bilge...well not in NZ.  I have asked dozens of people in the industry and they all look at me like I am from Mars ("Canada actually").

My bilge is very clean, but the gray gelcoat on the hull, and the gray enamel on the plywood ribs is worn out and looking old.  The interior of my lockers are all a bit dull, and in need of some attention.

I have therefore been looking for an all-around primer and topcoat that will treat all of these areas, as I do not want to end up with a lot of half-empty paint tins.

I also have the challenge that the inner surface of the bilge/hull is almost impossible to sand, as it is heavy mat, complete with a waffle-like pattern.

I stumbled around for quite a long time until I cam across a company called Zinsser (a division of Rust-Oleum), who produce a product called "Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Water-based Primer"...here is what they claim:

About Bulls Eye 1-2-3® Water-Base Primer

There’s a reason Rust-Oleum Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3® Water-Base Primer is our most popular primer. This premium, whole-house primer-sealer provides outstanding performance indoors and out, with low odor, great flow and leveling and a flexible, acrylic formula.

• Water-base primer-sealer
• Interior and exterior
• Sticks to all surfaces without sanding
• Seals stains, graffiti and tannin bleed
• Mold & mildew resistant film
• Rust inhibitive – great for new metal
• Fast 1 hour dry time

Note the bit about "...sticks to ALL surfaces without sanding...".  You can use it to prime ceramic tiles if you want...should work wonders on the glossy bilge gel-coat.

I am pretty excited that this primer will deal to the variable surfaces I want to treat.  It has a very high solids count, and is even anti-mold and mildew!

In terms of a top-coat, I am going to use a gloss-white marine enamel everywhere, for ease of clean-up and identification of any leaks or problems. 

I'll use this post as the work commences...so watch this space!


UPDATE 25/8/13:

I have decided to buy some white-tinted polyester "flow-coat" to apply to the actual bilge area, from the keel bolts up the the turn in the bilge.  I want to guarantee improved water-resistance in this area, which can be subject to standing water for periods of time.

This is a purpose-built product for this sort of application.  Following the flow-coat application I will prime and paint as described above.  It is essentially a polyester resin that cures hard instead of tacky.  Flow-coat is gel-coat with a wax added.  The wax seals the product at the top of the layer and allows it to harden fully.

Before:

An incredibly-clean bilge

I spent several hours scrubbing the bilge with Simple Green, then a strong solution of sugar soap.

UPDATE 31/8/13 - Painting the Flow-Coat

I gave the entire bilge a final sand a wipe down tonight, then mixed up 100mL of polyester flow-coat and hardener.  I used a disposable brush and applied the flow-coat the the very lowest portion of the bilge (where the keel bolts are), and up the sides 3".

I didn't consider painting the entire bilge with flow-coat because it would have required a lot of material (it goes on very thick, and does not spread very far).  I also decided not to flow-coat everything because it is a horrible product to work with (as are all polyester and epoxy resins), you must work quickly or even 100mL on a chilly night will kick in the cup.

The only place water will ever sit for more than a day is at the very bottom of the bilge, which is where I have applied the added protection of polyester resin ~ Flow-Coat.

Update - 01/09/13

I have sanded boat bottoms to gel coat with a hand sander, I have had a holding tank spill onto my head as I lifted it out of a hull, and I have put a sailmakers needle through the palm of my hand...but I have never done anything so difficult and unpleasant as painting the bilge...it is incredibly exhausting and trying. 

This is the progress so far on the primer coat, removing hoses as I go to avoid a total hack-job. 

Update 5/9/13 - Almost finished

I have applied a coat of gloss enamel this evening, so all but the last "section" below the companionway is complete.  I will have to come back to this section as otherwise I would have painted myself into a corner (literally).

The end result is as good as I expected, but as mentioned before the effort was perhaps disproportionate with the benefit...not sure.

AFTER  

An incredibly-clean bilge

Final touch ~ bilge pump re-installed.  I bedded it in silicone, no more screws into the f-glass

Check your zinc!

There is a big label on my heat exchanger that says "Check Zinc Monthly".

Monthly...what about bi-monthly?  Or tri-monthly?

Nope...monthly...here's why:

Exchanger zinc after 3 months...it was pitted but intact the last time I looked at it.

At least no damage was done, a bit of a good clean up due.  Chance to change the end-cap gasket as well.

LAZY! LAZY!!!

A clean up due, new gasket and some touch up paint.

Interior Woodwork - Refinish

I am on a quest to bring some life to the interior joinery, which is a bit sad as compared to the recently-refinished sole.

I tested a polyurethane but found it too much...too glossy. 

I have now settled on the following technique:

1.  I clean the wood with mineral spirits and a microfibre cloth. 

2. I apply at least two coats of a hard furniture wax (Briwax).

3. And here's my secret...I buff the wax once dry with 0000 gauge steel wool  ***(Now synthetic 18/7/13) with the grain, not a rag or bonnet. 

The finish is very subtle but very refined and deep. 

Before

Wax

Waxed and dried

Ready to buff  **SEE UPDATE BELOW - STEEL WOOL NOT GOOD FOR BOATS - SEEMS OBVIOUS NOW...

Finished - 2 coats

The alternative is a tremendous amount of varnishing and sanding, and frankly this treatment yields a beautiful result. 

I'll photograph the process as I go, but as all of my work happens in the middle of the night (2.8 young kids and a demanding career), the photos won't be great. 

UPDATE! 18/7/13

The preponderance of evidence would seem to indicate that 'real' steel wool is not a good idea inside a boat, as the tiny shards of wool will eventually rust and could make a mess wherever they end up.  For this reason I am switching my technique to use ultra-fine abrasive pads, which mimic steel wool

Bronze wool is simply not available in New Zealand, all of our sheep are steel.

With the new "fake steel wool" in hand I applied 4 coats of wax to the large bulkhead panel facing aft, and two coats everywhere else from the companionway to the head door along the aft starboard corner. 

The finish is a curious but wonderful blend of satin and deep gloss and the effort is made less with the pads to both apply and buff. 

21/7/13 - UPDATE!!

The waxing continues up the starboard side toward the forward cabin.  The interior surfaces of the head an shower, as well as the woodwork around the galley and tops of all shelves will be done with a satin polyurethane/varnish.

4 coats of hard paste wax

UPDATE 24/7/13

The waxing is complete!  3 coats on most surfaces, with 5 coats on the main panels.  I plan to let them cure for a day or two and then give them a light go with my one of my three power polishers (I'm not sure which yet, I have a HD angle polisher, a random-orbital polisher, and a simple car polisher).

I am really happy with the decision to go with wax, it reminds me of my old baseball glove, well worn, but always treated with a bit of lanolin...that uneven but striking gloss.

Next? ~ On to the comparatively-small amount of satin varnishing required around the galley, and in the head/shower interior.



Update 27/7/13 - Galley area completed

Big stove polish...to pretty to cook on.

UPDATE ~ 1/8/13 - Refinishing the liner battens

I am beginning the final (?) phase of the internal joinery refinishing...the rehabilitation of the horizontal battens/slats that line the hull in 3 places.  The main reason to remove them is due to the severely-corroded bronze screws that have discolored the wood.  

2 interesting facts:

1. The battens are western red cedar...not teak.
2. You can tell a corroded screw is bronze because it goes pink.

Step #1 ~ Removal & cleaning of the liner

Before removal, showing stained timber, rotten bronze screws, and grubby liner behind.

At least 6 screws broke at the head and required drilling out...

Step #2 - Sand the battens down to bare wood

Rough sand

Final sand & clean up the screw holes as best possible, but some of the black stain is deep

UPDATE 10/8/13 ~ Final works on battens

While these battens have yet to be cleaned and varnished, you can see a comparison of the old versus new fasteners

I am using 316 SS screws with cup washers to both bind the cedar better and to hide some of the staining around the screw holes.

Forward berth battens, screws changed but not yet varnished.

...And the final product!

Sanded bare, 2 coats of maple stain/varnish, and 2 coats of satin polyurethane.



Bottom 2 battens not installed (I need to find my stubby square drive screwdriver~too cramped for cordless driver)

UPDATE ~ 14/8/13 ~ Companionway trim & grab rails

The last wee bit of interior joinery refinishing is the trim around the companionway and the two single grab rails.  All of this teak is badly weathered and grubby.

I was really worried about sanding inside the cabin and making an unholy mess, so I bought myself a heat gun and a few scrapers.  This has been an excellent purchase as the work has gone very quickly.  It takes very little time to peel away the varnish (I do think it's marine varnish in this location).

I intend to clean the stipped teak and lighten it with a teak cleaner/brightener kit I purchased, then apply 4-5 coats of marine spar varnish.

Before any work was done

During the stripping process



Post stripping with heat gun

Done 21/8/13

Aside from ongoing additional coats of wax, this concludes the interior joinery 'refresh'.  I can now move on to various other projects.

I may well be re-installing the cabin dining table in days/weeks to come, but I will be painting the bilge first (obviously), and perhaps putting a coat of satin polyurethane on the table while I have it at home.