tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73215323316510612002024-03-15T01:47:05.411+13:00A Kiwi Nonsuch 30 UltraUpgrades and improvements to a sailboat in New Zealand.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger54125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-78807996290619310262021-10-22T10:56:00.000+13:002021-10-26T19:33:14.788+13:00Electronic/Navigational Upgrade Project<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">NMEA – <em>National Marine Electronics Association</em></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;">“NMEA 0183</span></i></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"> is a combined electrical and data specification for communication between marine electronic devices” (Wikipedia)<o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<a href="https://gpsd.gitlab.io/gpsd/NMEA.html"><span style="font-size: large;">NMEA EXPLAINED</span></a><br></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The issue:<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Wireless sports a complete B&G H1000 electronics/navigation suite, including wind, speed, depth, auto-pilot and chartplotter (CND).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This system was one of the best available 15 years ago, but has since been replaced and out-done.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Now while my system is working without any issues, I have decided to make some improvement to my onboard electronics, and it has been an uphill battle sorting through the world of marine electronics on my own.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">This post (as it continues to develop), should serve to assist anyone with an outdated chartplotter/autopilot controller who wants to utilise good existing instruments with a state of the art software and hardware package.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">It is the story of 2 generations of upgrade. Initially I simply wanted a GPS signal routed to my Icom VHF radio. Then as my knowledge of what was possible grew, I decided to replace the CND unit and develop a DIY navigation system.</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br></span></span></div><h2 style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: center;"><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><b>PROJECT #1 - GPS TO VHF</b></span></span></h2>
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<span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><strong>1.</strong></span><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span lang="EN" style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Get a signal from my GPS antenna to the NMEA input at the back of my ICOM M602 VHF, in order to display a back-up GPS position, but also to enable my DSC (digital selective calling) and location-enabled distress signal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ICOM M60f2 allows you to broadcast a per-determined nature of distress and a GPS location to any vessels in the area with a DSC unit (the Coast Guard in NZ do not monitor DSC on VHF). </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The B&G H1000 system is comprised of a masthead unit which produces data on wind speed and direction (recently refurbished), a depth sounder, a knot meter, a compass sensor unit, and a GPS antenna.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These units collect data which is fed to the CND unit, which is also the chartplotter and ‘brain’ of the system.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The information is processed, and distributed to the analog wind display, the multi-function LCD display, the autopilot display, and the autopilot itself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A tremendous amount of data is available to me while underway, from SOG to the location of the nearest fuel depot.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The B&G units all talk to each other over a B&G-only system called Fastnet2, but the language used is NMEA 0183.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My system incorporates a special unit called a “Universal Interface”, which is like the “back-door” to the system.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div></span>This interface allows non B&G components to send and receive data (0183) to and from the H1000 system.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I can achieve my goal by using connection 1 (NMEA tx+) behind the black cover.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the NMEA 0183 transmit connection from the overall system.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can see the inside of the box here:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><em>B&G Universal Interface</em></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The wires you see in this photo are connected to the alarm, letting me know when I’m about to aground, when I’ve dragged anchor etc.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">This option would limit my ability to eventually extract data from the system into a multiplexer, so to simply extract a GPS signal, there was a better way...and that is the CND 'black box' inside the electrical cabinet.</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><strong>The CND (Chartplotter) PWR Box</strong></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCASYEeX6EpYswHbN2oBvYbpc3pebcabt21EL68JY9CIoA979cg2U0wVIUQBIhvhym3HPIdM5Z-fM9riqif3goiksvBIQOUGFkBOtCwsE81kXCVgiRuaa0AlpZshdbJ4f2j4d8F8zid0bs/s1600/CND+PWR.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img bba="true" border="0" height="521" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCASYEeX6EpYswHbN2oBvYbpc3pebcabt21EL68JY9CIoA979cg2U0wVIUQBIhvhym3HPIdM5Z-fM9riqif3goiksvBIQOUGFkBOtCwsE81kXCVgiRuaa0AlpZshdbJ4f2j4d8F8zid0bs/s640/CND+PWR.JPG" width="640"></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><em>CND PWR box internals</em></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span>Solution<span style="color: blue;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span></span></b></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The best place to grab an GPS nmea 0183 signal is from the CND PWR box, which is where the chartplotter and GPS antenna come together to be energised, but also where they connect to each other.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt; text-align: left;"><br><em><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: medium;">Connect the GPS to the VHF at the CND PWR box.</span></b></em><br><br><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">The method for connecting the GPS to the VHF from the CND PWR box is to connect the blue wire from the CND/Chartplotter (NMEA OUT +) to the NMEAIN (+) pin on the back of the VHF.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri; mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Then you connect the black wire from the CND (NMEA OUT -) to the NMEAIN (-</span><complete id="goog_2024228983" style="font-family: Calibri;"></complete><span style="font-family: Calibri;">) pin on the VHF.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri; mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">You can see both wires in the photo above.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN0c_LVTnI4qugztPqiD6WOiIAZHdtWaQdb86_kQSSrS9W9H7wU2ikwK_ABUAeb4kV4XpyVf231o7FDJSFtaIYuXHFcfvpuS8wrcmSLSZsmRZzdUu2nSu9y0_pAU8-s-5zJemXqFh4iYUA/s1600/ICOMM602wiring.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img bba="true" border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN0c_LVTnI4qugztPqiD6WOiIAZHdtWaQdb86_kQSSrS9W9H7wU2ikwK_ABUAeb4kV4XpyVf231o7FDJSFtaIYuXHFcfvpuS8wrcmSLSZsmRZzdUu2nSu9y0_pAU8-s-5zJemXqFh4iYUA/s400/ICOMM602wiring.JPG" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>NOTE!!!!! This view is of the radio input, the cable is mirrored </i></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I have to take a minute to recognise a real guru on this subject, who really pointed me in the right direction.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here is the secret:</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span face="'Arial','sans-serif'" lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><o:p>John,</o:p></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span face="'Arial','sans-serif'" lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><o:p></o:p></span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span face="'Arial','sans-serif'" lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">You can get GPS information from 2 places in your system.</span></i></div>
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<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 36.0pt;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span face="'Arial','sans-serif'" lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">From the Blue (Data +) and Black (Data -) on the data / pwr cable that comes from the H1000 CND. (See page 46 of the attached manual). This is in the Junction box that you have identified and you can see the blue wire in the photo. <o:p></o:p></span></i></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 36.0pt;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span face="'Arial','sans-serif'" lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">From the H1000 Universal Interface terminal 1 (Data +) and Terminal 2 (Data -)<o:p></o:p></span></i></li>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span face="'Arial','sans-serif'" lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">You should be able to use 1 of these outputs to feed the VHF radio and the other one to feed the MUX. I would use the UAI output to feed the multiplexer as the CND NMEA output does not supply wind information.</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span face="'Arial','sans-serif'" lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I hope this helps.</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span face="'Arial','sans-serif'" lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Best Regards <o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<strong><em><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Comic Sans MS'; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-no-proof: yes;">Craig McMillan</span></em><em><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Comic Sans MS'; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-no-proof: yes;"><o:p></o:p></span></em></strong></div>
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<em><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Comic Sans MS'; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-no-proof: yes;"><strong>Advance Trident</strong></span></em></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="http://www.advancetrident.com/"><em><span color="windowtext" lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Comic Sans MS'; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">www.advancetrident.com</span></em></a></span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-AU" style="font-family: 'Comic Sans MS'; mso-ansi-language: EN-AU; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-no-proof: yes;"><o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt 18pt;"><b>UPDATE 31/7/13</b> - I have completed goal #1, specifically the connection of the GPS antenna to the VHF radio and the input of my MMSI ID. I can now use DSC to alert other boaters should I have an emergency. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the positon information now displayed on the VHF.</td></tr>
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Thank you to the guys at <a href="http://baymarineelectronics.co.nz/"><span style="font-size: large;">Bay Marine Electronics</span></a> in Tauranga, NZ. They had the tools to find the data stream from the GPS and get it into the VHF.</div>
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<img border="0" height="61" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9U7KnkAf83bFd8XWW2V0jgXhnqCsz-MIFFCVkIj6xWdzln8kubD1sXVpcWvIWMUZofmfhdRxQL-BteM41MhEF_Dd2m7iJmYtQBYXN7suLpg3ip-BDz2y5LEITi9pvNU3u_ez04pVGM9eD/s320/logo.jpg" width="320"></div>
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Also worthy of note is the wiring color codes of the GPS antenna itself.<div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZIpRWzZzS4bhxoPE2UdaPOBtL7fpTdTJGxRqQ4BmuBIuMd-b3rIUDvB8Hh7eYXYGyc4WINoOZzcrfV7iY-ZDaF6TRQfkidLZiI9mFO9r1Bt5_6GwFxuJRDxLIpMrufX8J-y3z7VA_QUYi/s654/GPS+Wiring+colors.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="297" data-original-width="654" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZIpRWzZzS4bhxoPE2UdaPOBtL7fpTdTJGxRqQ4BmuBIuMd-b3rIUDvB8Hh7eYXYGyc4WINoOZzcrfV7iY-ZDaF6TRQfkidLZiI9mFO9r1Bt5_6GwFxuJRDxLIpMrufX8J-y3z7VA_QUYi/w400-h181/GPS+Wiring+colors.JPG" width="400"></a></div><br><div><br>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>UPDATE 06/09/21</b><br></span><br>
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</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt 18pt;"><h3 style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span><b style="background-color: white;">After painstaking rese</b></span><b style="background-color: white;">arch over a couple years...</b></span></h3></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt 18pt;"><div style="text-align: center;"><b style="background-color: white; font-size: x-large;"><br></b></div></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt 18pt;"><h2 style="text-align: center;"><b style="background-color: white; font-size: x-large;"><b style="color: #073763;">Project 2 ~ New DIY Navigation System</b></b></h2></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt 18pt;"><div style="text-align: center;"><b style="background-color: white; font-size: x-large;"><br></b></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt 18pt;"><span><span>This is my chosen path to replace</span><span> the B&G CND unit, and fully-integrating my nmea 0183 data (from instruments) with a modern navigation package, AIS, and data from my charging system, engine, and onboard tanks.</span></span></div><div><br></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSc7RyS714_LfT6ip1yGeuktwOOKK7rZmpO9mjQ0vltU9kbnKXW6fN20F6uRHqrEWcdX8V2xrTULZW7-4C6TuvzqHVUZnbJEb_Qifcz9iqrXQ1amuWg4LCBY2qH3RvtqgLCqkpjZ-OhyVU/s1065/Proposed+System+2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="717" data-original-width="1065" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSc7RyS714_LfT6ip1yGeuktwOOKK7rZmpO9mjQ0vltU9kbnKXW6fN20F6uRHqrEWcdX8V2xrTULZW7-4C6TuvzqHVUZnbJEb_Qifcz9iqrXQ1amuWg4LCBY2qH3RvtqgLCqkpjZ-OhyVU/s16000/Proposed+System+2.jpg"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><br><div><br></div><div><br></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">NOTE: The B&G instruments receive power from the 4 way HUB and therefore do not rely on the CND unit for the small amount of volts they consume. This comes from my DC breaker panel. This allows me to delete the CND without compromising the instruments.</div><br><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt 18pt;"><br></div>
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There are several components to research and source, so I will be detailing each step along the way. Suffice to say I will be running <a href="https://openmarine.net/">Openplotter </a>(opensource/FREE chartplotter software) on a Raspberry Pi 4, monitored on dual screens, one in the cabin and one at the helm. <b> </b></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><b><br></b></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><b>This solution will cost approximately $400USD in total, approximately 1/10 of the cost of a new B&G navigation system!!</b></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRWONMKpK7lcSnnin7REcsov6JC9fel50BuTjQH2H3vT8PQfe8mxyWPP5WGE6XMWOebah9W5ilckB9moZKs-p_3cTEFfpFd6_VeJZinBi7Wg1qblsB_NN5q2c2oa9Ox75aGORtTpGsvfft/s1280/maxresdefault.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRWONMKpK7lcSnnin7REcsov6JC9fel50BuTjQH2H3vT8PQfe8mxyWPP5WGE6XMWOebah9W5ilckB9moZKs-p_3cTEFfpFd6_VeJZinBi7Wg1qblsB_NN5q2c2oa9Ox75aGORtTpGsvfft/w640-h360/maxresdefault.jpg" width="640"></a></div><br><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;">Here's the heart of the system, a Raspberry Pi 4 Model B 2019 Quad Core 64 Bit WiFi Bluetooth (4GB):</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZm8yEFbwOQHMqL_4PGWAYq24eymZ_ZEyibSltc9d1uqY0TU-n6Kv5YrBlchAeOUFoLZ7b279vCnighsF_9Vu7lHp5F9iY1FKGvyQoOFj70abn_EN-ZeRoxAbKEtidZtanfjQh9yq5LlvJ/s466/Rpi4B.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="436" data-original-width="466" height="598" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZm8yEFbwOQHMqL_4PGWAYq24eymZ_ZEyibSltc9d1uqY0TU-n6Kv5YrBlchAeOUFoLZ7b279vCnighsF_9Vu7lHp5F9iY1FKGvyQoOFj70abn_EN-ZeRoxAbKEtidZtanfjQh9yq5LlvJ/w640-h598/Rpi4B.JPG" width="640"></a></div><div><br></div>And this is the cooling case for it:<div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFIZUQqBLotPHHQkMAFb9hU38-VWLMRoC3rwN_a4htWZC4Y0wCTKzz0qK0_6vndhCZ45vdnxltPGl_pWTqe-QQmDTCDqY6GeruaMVv6Co0UIZGWWDoNTuhcW7gEobQDhAuFYQPQX5bDSXK/s646/Case.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="472" data-original-width="646" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFIZUQqBLotPHHQkMAFb9hU38-VWLMRoC3rwN_a4htWZC4Y0wCTKzz0qK0_6vndhCZ45vdnxltPGl_pWTqe-QQmDTCDqY6GeruaMVv6Co0UIZGWWDoNTuhcW7gEobQDhAuFYQPQX5bDSXK/w640-h468/Case.JPG" width="640"></a></div><br><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>The Raspberry Pi will display on a Eyoyo 2K Portable Monitor (mounted on the bulkhead in place of the current chartplotter).</div><div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6IM6VQyOXsWvoKFx9KA9OZnKYoQvAX6uuZo5P-9x7JTrxw76TZM50M4jN5WLZ3WVc_O1oBGY9NJmu_V2JTI1kDjsxPVxD0B1A-Bt18Iwz9Z0Y0OyN3_EcnLcORR5fOY8cV0gm6Q_HIrM_/s598/Screen.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="598" data-original-width="477" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6IM6VQyOXsWvoKFx9KA9OZnKYoQvAX6uuZo5P-9x7JTrxw76TZM50M4jN5WLZ3WVc_O1oBGY9NJmu_V2JTI1kDjsxPVxD0B1A-Bt18Iwz9Z0Y0OyN3_EcnLcORR5fOY8cV0gm6Q_HIrM_/w510-h640/Screen.JPG" width="510"></a></div><br><div><br></div><div>To get data from the B&G instruments, GPS, and AIS to the RPi (computer), and then to send data back to the autopilot, I will need a multiplexer (MUX). This device combines data coming in from different locations and at different speeds (baud rates) into one output (USB) that can be sent to the computer.</div><div><br></div><div>I selected a simple and affordable ($89 USD) unit manufactured in Australia by <a href="http://www.yakbitz.com/"><span style="font-size: medium;">YakBitz</span></a></div><div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxDCvMIf7a7IwUA3Xn5zHWL6pffEhjFfBbi_Yaa4X1PsySxquuZxVsf_z_wAQIHuIp6L7ploYGHLuEQMNl5wMTcf7nFNHrCeoL7mK-1u-3LKDtdn8h1AQMBryB8jSC7HVrcsC6e46wWMxx/s868/YakMUX.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="486" data-original-width="868" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxDCvMIf7a7IwUA3Xn5zHWL6pffEhjFfBbi_Yaa4X1PsySxquuZxVsf_z_wAQIHuIp6L7ploYGHLuEQMNl5wMTcf7nFNHrCeoL7mK-1u-3LKDtdn8h1AQMBryB8jSC7HVrcsC6e46wWMxx/w640-h358/YakMUX.JPG" width="640"></a></div><br><div>All of these parts are in transit....watch this space!!</div><div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div><br><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;">17/9/21 Update!</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Here is the Raspberry Pi4b hot from the courier, I am installing it in a cooled aluminum case.</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;">These things are TINY! I imagine all of this will be easy to install discreetly. </div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;">Update 22/9/21</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;">Here's the recommended wiring between a B&G H1000 Universal Interface and the Yakmux unit, courtesy of Steve at <a href="http://www.yakbitz.com/"><span style="font-size: medium;">YakBitz</span></a>.</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXigE6rMO7gPjEuwSvjMYlKbpwx2CypJBvnysCYgX1PXXve3B_KsYWBy45IHjho8hyphenhyphen-9anNW0redVrvYxbFZeB7oj6s6GP4Otsn162_PTjzaiHQvBauQdeda2tA5THBDvdLiXhsH7QOYE8/s1200/Yakmux+wiring.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="539" data-original-width="1200" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXigE6rMO7gPjEuwSvjMYlKbpwx2CypJBvnysCYgX1PXXve3B_KsYWBy45IHjho8hyphenhyphen-9anNW0redVrvYxbFZeB7oj6s6GP4Otsn162_PTjzaiHQvBauQdeda2tA5THBDvdLiXhsH7QOYE8/w640-h288/Yakmux+wiring.jpg" width="640"></a></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div>23/9/21 - Refined drawing showing power and data connections to existing equipment.</div><div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhygqdQUMLDm8qsHuY95Q6dyuIrFcX1SfW530jBFVUe5aQB8oytmNr6f1kRfb0tdtAnEOAkOh58NVK8Iz_KwOkQLBL4LY_wTSwfxs6TLr7xnmRvYgymWmw7X-j44XfYK7g_R4x_9kSqwSpH/s1047/Wiring+Instruments.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="939" data-original-width="1047" height="574" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhygqdQUMLDm8qsHuY95Q6dyuIrFcX1SfW530jBFVUe5aQB8oytmNr6f1kRfb0tdtAnEOAkOh58NVK8Iz_KwOkQLBL4LY_wTSwfxs6TLr7xnmRvYgymWmw7X-j44XfYK7g_R4x_9kSqwSpH/w640-h574/Wiring+Instruments.jpg" width="640"></a></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div>Update 25/9/21</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div><br></div><div>The removal of the CND unit will leave a hole, needed a plate to cover and act as a base for the new monitor or equipment (placement tbc). Still had some scrap teak. Bit of cutting and shaping and oiling later...</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWiI58DFUVXv_QogWEtPTLeHVI5ysI2yt_1my7Fs1jKWTuS3HUrPiH92j0TOSeL08OwbifENoNTUTlDw56UlD-GjWiwkCVmCHMVdTXVsULypK7zzJFQgBZuHdcGwISy_f_IBwByQitx-i5/s3902/20211022_084111.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1657" data-original-width="3902" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWiI58DFUVXv_QogWEtPTLeHVI5ysI2yt_1my7Fs1jKWTuS3HUrPiH92j0TOSeL08OwbifENoNTUTlDw56UlD-GjWiwkCVmCHMVdTXVsULypK7zzJFQgBZuHdcGwISy_f_IBwByQitx-i5/w640-h272/20211022_084111.jpg" width="640"></a></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div>Update 4/10/21</div><div><br></div><div>I've created a mounting board from marine plywood, and stuck it to the inside of the bulkhead (in the small locker starboard of the companionway) using 3M 5200. This will allow me to screw down the required components. To hold the panel in place for curing I used what I had at hand...a teaspoon.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div>Here is the Yakmux unit wired at one end.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div>I'm not sure yet how to open the jaws on the B&G UI end of things.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div><br><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;">Update 6/10/21</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;">I think the most challenging part of the project thus far has been running the wiring from the starboard instrument locker to the port side DC panel and navigation station. A convoluted series of small openings and transition over the engine meant moving back and forth between the cabin and engine room. I accomplished 3 objectives:</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="text-align: left;"><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>Pull the GPS antenna cable back to the instrument locker from the black junction box (see older post above) in the DC panel cabinet. The GPS cable will be wired directly to the Yaxmux.</li><li>Pull a 7.5a cable from the instrument locker to the DC panel</li><li>Pull a long USB cable from the Yakmux to the RPi at the nav table.</li></ol><div><br></div><div>I then installed a terminal post in the instrument locker and confirmed 12v. I wired the Yakmux to the B&G Universal Interface and the GPS antenna to the Yakmux. Power and ground was applied to the Yakmux and antenna (the UI is powered along with the entire B&G system from the DC cabinet 4-way box).</div><div><br></div><div>The very small wires connecting the electronics were soldered or crimped as required, I'm not a huge fan of dealing with tiny wires tbh. The Yakmux and GPS antenna draw milliamps.</div><div><br></div><div>Turned the system on and proceeded to look for a signal in Openplotter and Signal K (more on this later) and can confirm that data is being received!</div><div><br></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOCww5_5psYhXiiT1ZjS-qnXIA6lMa-ZDgXEPxY4G5EwudZxoO7l2NDOB0AmAvpCVQDhkrj6hkmmI1AbZun66IKUVupumpyL3sD8Cli1GOt9SIfm6rH60yv7sor_y0A52IVbewWuTfuz4_/s2268/20211006_081542.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2197" data-original-width="2268" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOCww5_5psYhXiiT1ZjS-qnXIA6lMa-ZDgXEPxY4G5EwudZxoO7l2NDOB0AmAvpCVQDhkrj6hkmmI1AbZun66IKUVupumpyL3sD8Cli1GOt9SIfm6rH60yv7sor_y0A52IVbewWuTfuz4_/s320/20211006_081542.jpg" width="320"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grainy photo...tiny wires</td></tr></tbody></table><br><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSZ_uvMbp_c5sIm5BaLDLMakV6QgiAt01D1sFRD05t-D5mkL-zVKqyj1INOJtBgwfUgIz7e-LAlvol6Tm_9X93ysknI9F05TdZeF-AqrUT6oU8AhZG6Fn01tIfVyCatBqwf3l6xGia9pm/s3484/20211006_081711.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3484" data-original-width="2067" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkSZ_uvMbp_c5sIm5BaLDLMakV6QgiAt01D1sFRD05t-D5mkL-zVKqyj1INOJtBgwfUgIz7e-LAlvol6Tm_9X93ysknI9F05TdZeF-AqrUT6oU8AhZG6Fn01tIfVyCatBqwf3l6xGia9pm/w380-h640/20211006_081711.jpg" width="380"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's ALIVE!!!</td></tr></tbody></table><br><div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div></div></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div>7/10/21 SETBACK!!</div><br><div><br></div><div>My B&G 4 Way Hub has shorted out. The 5amp circuit breaker tripped and I traced the problem to a corroded and broken pin on the B&G 4 way hub power connection.</div><div><br></div><div>The 4 way hub connects the instruments at the forward end of the boat with the instruments and equipment at the aft end of the boat. It also introduces 12v DC power and grounding to the system through a cable that looks identical to the Fastnet2 cables, but has only <b>2</b> wires (Red + and Blue -).</div><div><br></div><div>It was at the power connection that the pin burned out and damaged both the hub and the power cable.</div><div><br></div><div>This takes down all of the instruments until I can find a replacement. The system is discontinued so this might be a challenge. </div><div><br></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-i3QvX9hcxm7s04pB9MSt2v_5qFpMlCWHAu993Ini24mfufmfNGJfLoHeX01RJeqgCHUVobeMZ1egEKYhqYN1gblEzcs7wrSnaQ2lSewm_EqDcQ849qNOsEEEIpOcfmwzjEQk8UHMR6w/s1600/1633543531946721-0.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400"></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">4 Way Hub</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq7XF8uS_CE9MQQWE4FXpXEIiKF4gsFAgVYGJTI0gTIc45zs-fxR9YNuNYRuFF6z9BXSjbZheuV9X-9Mhplnq56KGtVsnjimhf22JZAJ_IfX5eq0SZ6vkcAhrZwoKPyi-BrXr_V0-UZAUu/s1000/Max02172019ldsjflkehglkhfdsg-324-scaled.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq7XF8uS_CE9MQQWE4FXpXEIiKF4gsFAgVYGJTI0gTIc45zs-fxR9YNuNYRuFF6z9BXSjbZheuV9X-9Mhplnq56KGtVsnjimhf22JZAJ_IfX5eq0SZ6vkcAhrZwoKPyi-BrXr_V0-UZAUu/w640-h480/Max02172019ldsjflkehglkhfdsg-324-scaled.jpg" width="640"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fastnet2 connector</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Update 8/10/21</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I have located a new/old stock B&G H1000 4 Way Hub in Florida USA. It is being couriered to NZ and should arrive in a week or 2.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As I have had no luck in finding the power cable (<i>which is known as H1000HCP in the B&G literature</i>), I am forced to create one.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Because the B&G chartplotter is now redundant, I have 2 useable Fastnet2 connectors at either end of the chartplotter's cable. This cable, unlike the HCP power cable, has<b> 4 wires with a shield</b> rather than 2 wires.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I need to understand how the original power cable was wired if I am to replicate it with the spare cable. I used my multimeter (ohms) to test <b>continuity </b>and found the following arrangement:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On the H1000HCP factory cable (<i><b>PLEASE REFER TO THE DIAGRAM ON THE RIGHT, WHICH IS THE CABLE</b></i>), the <b><span style="color: red;">red</span> </b>wire (+) went to hole <b>#1</b>, and the <b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">blue</span> </b>wire (-) went to hole <b>#5.</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">On the cable I have available to replace it, <b>I have discovered that the <span style="color: red;">red </span>wire also goes to hole #1</b>, and the <b>metal shield goes to hole #5</b>. So this confirms that I need to <b>apply 12v to the <span style="color: red;">red</span> wire</b>, and <b>connect the shield to my negative bus bar.</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br></div><br></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEFYbZpeZLF-M2qFYDQElEeqMjSbLwL58NDb5ubh3_oo0PfsyJkN5GNQ_O7_He6zPycZIwcrjWqLkZrjGf5KlOrlTgU3tqLEWUL3InAONzzNyb7_vfTWBb6H7tOpt_1w7UJrMDEh9MzwDF/s564/Fastnet2+Cable+Diagram.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="326" data-original-width="564" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEFYbZpeZLF-M2qFYDQElEeqMjSbLwL58NDb5ubh3_oo0PfsyJkN5GNQ_O7_He6zPycZIwcrjWqLkZrjGf5KlOrlTgU3tqLEWUL3InAONzzNyb7_vfTWBb6H7tOpt_1w7UJrMDEh9MzwDF/w640-h370/Fastnet2+Cable+Diagram.jpg" width="640"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image on left is the hub with male pins. Image on the right is mirrored, and represent the female cable end. <b>The confirmation of the color of the 3 data cables come from</b><a href="https://www.oppedijk.com/bandg/fastnet.html"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"> Oppedijk.com</span></b></a></td></tr></tbody></table><br><div><br></div><div>If you are struggling to understand the B&G Fastnet2 system, please spend some time on the following website:</div><div><br></div><h2 style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.oppedijk.com/bandg/fastnet.html">Oppedijk.com</a></h2><div><br></div><div>Update 15/10/21:</div><div><br></div><div>This arrived today all the way from Florida USA! Might be the last one on the planet but it will put me back into action next week.</div><div><br></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGcxKFlaUv1hiLGEk14TJQXDoFIBna_CQp_GJ_3Y5n2JLn_ZfM3KtYVH_GEj6m9zMs1lO7YobLKiT6vTP4iQWQxtjwixErArfOR1Ztg2AYEhSw78as842JmAea9j4PByAw9mL7bDrLUl4I/s4032/20211015_104254.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGcxKFlaUv1hiLGEk14TJQXDoFIBna_CQp_GJ_3Y5n2JLn_ZfM3KtYVH_GEj6m9zMs1lO7YobLKiT6vTP4iQWQxtjwixErArfOR1Ztg2AYEhSw78as842JmAea9j4PByAw9mL7bDrLUl4I/w360-h640/20211015_104254.jpg" width="360"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black instead of yellow, but this is the real deal.</td></tr></tbody></table><br><div><br></div><div>Update 21/10/21</div><div><br></div><div>I have finally got the system figured out, with all of my B&G H1000 instruments and the GPS antenna sending good data to the RPi4 and Openplotter.</div><div><br></div><div>This was not straightforward at all, and at first it didn't work. I got some great help from Steve at <a href="http://www.yakbitz.com/YakMUX.aspx"><span style="font-size: large;">Yakbitz</span></a>. He looked at the data that was coming in from the B&G network and immediately suspected a voltage drop imbalance. Briefly, this is when the voltage drop on the Tx+ or Rx+ lines differ substantially from the drop on the Tx- or Rx- lines. Voltage drop occurs in any wire over distance, so the distances must be the same.</div><div><br></div><div>Because I was connecting the Tx+ and Rx+ leads from the Yakmux to the B&G Universal Interface over a distance of about 100mm, and the Tx- and Rx- lines were being grounded all the way back to the DC panel (3meters), the differential voltage drop was enough to corrupt the data stream. I grounded the negative data lines to the screen inside the UI and this instantly fixed the problem.</div><div><br></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO5dZiuToHL1d0A43PPNYPLSxFGFs01GXdD0djgFAmHI8RQDw42tCIcsvyewTuNirce16DW7tsyaLg-Vaso9lNmbjlHVjWnMp0tkoYRHMpQHq9cpl408Zu-kLXfp9cp0Zea9EoTixb6t9s/s1200/Yakmux+wiring.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="539" data-original-width="1200" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO5dZiuToHL1d0A43PPNYPLSxFGFs01GXdD0djgFAmHI8RQDw42tCIcsvyewTuNirce16DW7tsyaLg-Vaso9lNmbjlHVjWnMp0tkoYRHMpQHq9cpl408Zu-kLXfp9cp0Zea9EoTixb6t9s/w640-h288/Yakmux+wiring.jpg" width="640"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Data + lines (green and yellow) are the same length at the Data - lines (black)</td></tr></tbody></table><br><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>I am tempted to start some sort of B&G H1000 help forum. I really think this gear is top quality, but it is older and has been abandoned by B&G. I have learned so much about how it works now I'm sure there are others faced with the prospect of replacing good gear when they want to upgrade a single component.</div><div><br></div><div>Next I will be refining and developing the system to include dashboards, a 2nd monitor at the helm, integrating the system into my autopilot, and creating a panel to display my battery data, tank, and engine data. I will also re-connect my VHF to receive GPS data using an RS485 connector.</div><div><br></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJrpx68JGJBE9FNhMJc_YVpVo0wDd1fyz8XcFlCDTG0hv1FHS9e5lGYULI9u33SShSxyL17fK152finEsaNh8gS7iCW3l-8Dse7jzuXvLDRmb6sh0Vo2nDv6DsY0lS4h-M7SI3wYfgZs1E/s504/RS485+to+USB.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="389" data-original-width="504" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJrpx68JGJBE9FNhMJc_YVpVo0wDd1fyz8XcFlCDTG0hv1FHS9e5lGYULI9u33SShSxyL17fK152finEsaNh8gS7iCW3l-8Dse7jzuXvLDRmb6sh0Vo2nDv6DsY0lS4h-M7SI3wYfgZs1E/w400-h309/RS485+to+USB.JPG" width="400"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">USB to NMEA cable</td></tr></tbody></table><br><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSedNCcMFhUTOYxhBjVDNwCG8pOSUex64bcuoGlSEP7_DHBxpudP8oIOKKb6vBJxELWw7vshhZQyGjgE1wLqg3zYdslmSIPcn23XwYzQXh4FV4aOTKKXO3zjSboA2UOzWwmt5bSNV-SeAC/s294/ICOMM602wiring.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="185" data-original-width="294" height="403" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSedNCcMFhUTOYxhBjVDNwCG8pOSUex64bcuoGlSEP7_DHBxpudP8oIOKKb6vBJxELWw7vshhZQyGjgE1wLqg3zYdslmSIPcn23XwYzQXh4FV4aOTKKXO3zjSboA2UOzWwmt5bSNV-SeAC/w640-h403/ICOMM602wiring.JPG" width="640"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ICOM 602 wiring</td></tr></tbody></table><br><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-25148806390775501522021-10-19T19:10:00.001+13:002021-10-19T19:15:28.956+13:00In Hot Water! ~ Adventures in Plumbing!I've owned Wireless for nearly 10 years and I've never had hot water aboard. The original Paloma califont was removed a long time ago.<div>I've begun the process of installing a new califont, which will include installing the deck flue within a dorade box built years ago ( <span face="Roboto, RobotoDraft, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 14px;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;">https://kiwi-nonsuch.blogspot.com/2013/08/dorade-box-construction-project.html</span></span><span color="rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.52)" face="Roboto, RobotoDraft, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; font-size: 14px;">)</span>; installing the califont, and plumbing water and gas.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>25mm teak board to be re-sawn into 2 dorade tops. A local mill have offered to do this with a very large bandsaw. 10-12mm isn't ideal, but the top is under no stress and this stuff is EXPENSIVE!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Update 13/7/21:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So the scale of this project is setting in, and it's expanding. My original freshwater pump is beginning to play up, and I think it may be ready for replacement. I figure it's time to refresh the system entirely as some new buteline tubing is required for hot water.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've purchased this tidy unit, it's a pre mounted pump and accumulator. It even has wiring internal to the panel. It comes with a strainer as well. It's a Seaflo 42, which has a bypass valve to further reduce pulsing.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3wW9J5b4khkM21pkTb3Bbm1YFkAqeGswoEbYqcfrYLf1uYyfMsphpCmtAzcdDVIMEHotSFO-p21Jk9iti_kqcjQhR2I2Hhwg_Yp-CIW7oKALB-5X65-wygJsYvnow14UvXp8y8W-LtzFV/s1200/Capture3.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="661" data-original-width="1200" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3wW9J5b4khkM21pkTb3Bbm1YFkAqeGswoEbYqcfrYLf1uYyfMsphpCmtAzcdDVIMEHotSFO-p21Jk9iti_kqcjQhR2I2Hhwg_Yp-CIW7oKALB-5X65-wygJsYvnow14UvXp8y8W-LtzFV/w640-h352/Capture3.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9Di_0hM_6VWZAnun6er8Q87CIG9bVjnItLTCpYmn-VPce4qHz0wZ_g1G-HBis7qmM13gteZXqZ8X63nv0ZO_VKt5kQUrCnTbDuhzloIOM3eXZuBxSnpnnxzE1JoxQ2WUopV7h66ApQwV/s624/Capture2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="580" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9Di_0hM_6VWZAnun6er8Q87CIG9bVjnItLTCpYmn-VPce4qHz0wZ_g1G-HBis7qmM13gteZXqZ8X63nv0ZO_VKt5kQUrCnTbDuhzloIOM3eXZuBxSnpnnxzE1JoxQ2WUopV7h66ApQwV/w594-h640/Capture2.JPG" width="594" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlW2qo8R3nvwyK5ksYETYWrkRFmQNHLt8bF0VGzIj7HFAO5Mts3xf32zPjKeidTLk7UnWJxqM1Eyy2_DyCst3zL0ITiQjKQALTDoR_aHM-YGQky4xryUje3wUckFSfuq7s5zvm1HPCYbor/s536/Seaflo1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="408" data-original-width="536" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlW2qo8R3nvwyK5ksYETYWrkRFmQNHLt8bF0VGzIj7HFAO5Mts3xf32zPjKeidTLk7UnWJxqM1Eyy2_DyCst3zL0ITiQjKQALTDoR_aHM-YGQky4xryUje3wUckFSfuq7s5zvm1HPCYbor/w640-h488/Seaflo1.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp7uWJ6fCljTnx8-yy_XfpH9qU1bUD6Gj3yRmh_M3bSWrYQ_GrKZKwZE57PV6d1lnJt0s0yn6e8sgi8cO8uhxli7szCZZh8qDRHbh0kkFpYZUfUuJQ8RCGo7XqnzxKMdrJfdfIneN8i2OO/s4032/1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp7uWJ6fCljTnx8-yy_XfpH9qU1bUD6Gj3yRmh_M3bSWrYQ_GrKZKwZE57PV6d1lnJt0s0yn6e8sgi8cO8uhxli7szCZZh8qDRHbh0kkFpYZUfUuJQ8RCGo7XqnzxKMdrJfdfIneN8i2OO/w360-h640/1.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old pump - possibly original</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlx-vHSoX46c2MGq9txWbaICNOy_SxRcVlMMuniLI1JzxDIDlc_A5E2KXme7Z3n9Yj8cLOTpkaD1hlSrgfzSSvUzwdIebXRMhN08KLy2l8lfSm31TMlUuuzFa8wvlXphpgqIe31ggJUPXs/s4032/2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlx-vHSoX46c2MGq9txWbaICNOy_SxRcVlMMuniLI1JzxDIDlc_A5E2KXme7Z3n9Yj8cLOTpkaD1hlSrgfzSSvUzwdIebXRMhN08KLy2l8lfSm31TMlUuuzFa8wvlXphpgqIe31ggJUPXs/w225-h400/2.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Space for new pump and accumulator</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>Done! Very tricky working under the head sink, little to no room to crimp fittings and wires. Improvised with some flexible hose.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To Do:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">1. <strike>Fabricate flue pipe to pass from cabinet above galley through the deck into dorade box</strike>. (<i>DONE - I bought a 4" to 3" exhaust adaptor from an automotive supplier and applied couple coats of epoxy paint</i>)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">2. <strike>Remove patch, pass flue through hole to measure and cut.</strike></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">3. Wrap flue with heat wrap, then <strike>secure in place with high temp epoxy putty.</strike></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Update 2/8/21:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So the outlet of the califont when mounted in place is offset 12mm to port of the hole in the deck. This is a problem, because it is enough of a misalignment to prevent any solid flue from connecting the 2 points. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I happened across a product that is used in the trucking industry. It is a stainless steel flexible pipe that comes in a range of diameters.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsr55SOsE9SKQJtAeM9J-P4bXkVRl6i-Q-5YeQMkfLCNqcOFrmbtVIUHyGSqrKAl049OekzAw_ZmP5ruDAwczeivt5IM3qnMaJA6LnYg17Z6pbR_A5wDa9BAj2FOTWoHe4DJK7iYBkqLX-/s600/P1020600-600x600.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsr55SOsE9SKQJtAeM9J-P4bXkVRl6i-Q-5YeQMkfLCNqcOFrmbtVIUHyGSqrKAl049OekzAw_ZmP5ruDAwczeivt5IM3qnMaJA6LnYg17Z6pbR_A5wDa9BAj2FOTWoHe4DJK7iYBkqLX-/w400-h400/P1020600-600x600.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This will allow me to position the califont roughly 300mm from the ceiling, and pass the flexi tubing through the deck, bending it as required to land in the reducer I have created for the outlet. I'll position the dorade box, mark and cut the excess tubing off with a hacksaw. I want as much protruding as possible, despite having a baffle in the dorade...obviously seawater getting in would be bad news.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I think standard exhaust header wrap or equivalent insulation will reduce the liklihood of anything getting too hot in the cabinet above the califont. The temperature of the gases leaving the califont, and the corresponding heat in the flue is a matter of conjecture. Clearly LPG is being burned, but the heating is sporadic and very short lived in an on-demand heater. Even 10 seconds of running the hot water is unlikely to heat the flue to the point where it could cause a burn or a melted cup. Still, wrapping the entire thing in insulation is cheap insurance.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">4. F<strike>abricate top panel for dorade box, install baffle, heatshield, vent, and drain hole and prepare for installation on deck. Screw and plug the box </strike>(<i>Done</i>)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Heat reflective lining as this is a hot air exhaust </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaV7aFLq8qODX1SuLdN1yfabPCqwG6kRSxydCqV3bS8SW8eIF8DcgN1HNPH4ErpP0qHy0Ney-pZF5tpZvyXy_L5i2_MYdpaAN2w3Pn6VXCLV1vc9EnDnKX0gHeN0KrPt7rF2sAdAr7aJMV/s1600/1627116496012869-3.png" width="400" />
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</div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Teak oil to protect it for now.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinmyGSDfmroPI5dMEw6KUXmd6sFfFpjfY7eX4qiuLIpYYyfaGgpGR8hi02Lwngo8S5jFvm4SgrAdHnPGNnevUB1IqW3gk_mr3JGiox1fJMMkAsAbAinrrEH618sk4MlI123zWxrJlwZIyG/s1600/1627190694616833-3.png" width="400" />
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</div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Drain holes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLKqQQT2GST0ZE4fqy3qCjfsxWnkpDTtP_YTZXB2gdSHkb6-6C_hxH81pUk5oz1KBEOw3cqqRZ0ZM5V9sngNkpUDvk8ovI6K-A0TcODVn9gC5npOMpfdve1j8i2dCygVISFbrIthciVWoU/s1600/1627190677923681-4.png" width="400" />
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</div>Pocket drilled holes</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">5. Secure dorade box to deck with 3M 5200 and pocket screws.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcklCjY1a74acfRHNfNvk2TMiiLEcxkQmFlWQzjSNCvoH3_rMsJzwjHelO2bnAglYxSVh-hAe5qH0DYZ50Pkfs4d0jj4CICI7DcNYAqIyRkVIKk2dtlKz_Lw48Po54Hob3BlyaFwmPtt2r/s1600/1626473683579816-2.png" width="400" />
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</div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">6. <strike>Install califont on bulkhead through cabinet. Because the califont's top mount is a screw pocket, I will need to mark its position on the bulkhead, then use some plastic or tracing paper to set out the screw in the correct position (like a picture hook). The bottom screws are simply driven through holes in the chassis</strike>. <i>DONE!!</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinLKwhezlUD36DHtZe8vtZq3ofh9aNQxkS0TeXqZUrbXjICDUsQs_GBoUn6GrBNWT3AozI-3JDlVW-8ee9HXoQ-LxVqtrwSIgH6WXS16icI6t2u7T8HIeqtW307HsxTC_W6Ofj3tC_SDzm/s1600/1627892645684005-1.png" width="400" />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Update: 4/8/21</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The first guaranteed sunny day meant an early start before work ~ time to pull the deck plug and get this chimney installed!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz-jKwwYu25IWphAxiTWzT6ZDfwty_IYiSBQjnX3-uQEwNz3IWhcTn2GtNM_ozasj1_gWHtVk65hdSf8qLGIWb_1uU1PnY_mQ80AIKDbFemoBBLJN68S0HPhOpHXarQ_wbRf9w-qNkAXm3/s4032/20210804_112720.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz-jKwwYu25IWphAxiTWzT6ZDfwty_IYiSBQjnX3-uQEwNz3IWhcTn2GtNM_ozasj1_gWHtVk65hdSf8qLGIWb_1uU1PnY_mQ80AIKDbFemoBBLJN68S0HPhOpHXarQ_wbRf9w-qNkAXm3/w360-h640/20210804_112720.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plug is gone, not far from the reducer to the deck</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5FcPRKU85pw_gpLDfP7Zj_ZxFV-kMdLW6km7TyEsb9Eeg3e2q6k7Qd0XeONiy8NSg73PhfwOVaLMwGv0gFCAngWII3AF1U5GsuyH_KF-mHvyHm0CDNKkTxj3WSyEz1ptD8ivajeQ0IxJp/s4032/20210804_112738.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5FcPRKU85pw_gpLDfP7Zj_ZxFV-kMdLW6km7TyEsb9Eeg3e2q6k7Qd0XeONiy8NSg73PhfwOVaLMwGv0gFCAngWII3AF1U5GsuyH_KF-mHvyHm0CDNKkTxj3WSyEz1ptD8ivajeQ0IxJp/w360-h640/20210804_112738.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The stainless steel flex-tube comes by the meter! You can see how it can conform to the offset</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicsTpsMuO_9AbDYKd69VMgHGFg2xz52ky0ydOcJn70mjtIYtj4Zm6YIa8EOz2EYoUZ4-iMrGqst5ujvt1cvZvJMuxB4GJ7vwAABRNuGd6zTRATub9h-pdkdCbT9hCMUkA3VXBgpKoKvoFF/s4032/20210804_112757.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicsTpsMuO_9AbDYKd69VMgHGFg2xz52ky0ydOcJn70mjtIYtj4Zm6YIa8EOz2EYoUZ4-iMrGqst5ujvt1cvZvJMuxB4GJ7vwAABRNuGd6zTRATub9h-pdkdCbT9hCMUkA3VXBgpKoKvoFF/w360-h640/20210804_112757.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I used JB Weld High Temp (600F) epoxy putty above, below, and around the opening as a barrier</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpeWVsDcrHt5As_B7Mct2DMteSpr58iYV2_x2T4K24K-ECrF2aJbCUevxFRNxGJ3-vecvslIFt60_mCtjxwR0-XgcM6ruEQY-qzf-0DaOKXK33tHkxLfOjipX3z6ssrFg65YPkJ-qKWE36/s4032/20210804_112828.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpeWVsDcrHt5As_B7Mct2DMteSpr58iYV2_x2T4K24K-ECrF2aJbCUevxFRNxGJ3-vecvslIFt60_mCtjxwR0-XgcM6ruEQY-qzf-0DaOKXK33tHkxLfOjipX3z6ssrFg65YPkJ-qKWE36/w360-h640/20210804_112828.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cut to size with a hacksaw</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz9uFUvm55E1LJe8KOfJGzFSNu4GHo7HYOvgKFvfqxYY3migmKVYtuj1pajuGjjQ3nSTwu03M9xytoiIIM_shu031OMhMF6tHP_X0MmpZeWntj_TmqTZ0aHTd0iLEAbaEfvbQFHLa2gWsT/s4032/20210804_112856.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz9uFUvm55E1LJe8KOfJGzFSNu4GHo7HYOvgKFvfqxYY3migmKVYtuj1pajuGjjQ3nSTwu03M9xytoiIIM_shu031OMhMF6tHP_X0MmpZeWntj_TmqTZ0aHTd0iLEAbaEfvbQFHLa2gWsT/w360-h640/20210804_112856.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three layers of the high temp putty, in between the top and bottom deck laminate, around the base of the flue, and another layer blended up the flue. *The repaired gelcoat cracks/epoxy will vanish when I apply non-skid in the spring.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">TIPS! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">~ Sand the SS pipe and the deck with 80 grit to get a good bond.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">~ Warm the putty in the sun before trying to knead it and blend it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">~ Bring a cup of warm water and wet your fingers as you roll the putty into a long thin snake, and work it down into the gap and up the flue. I continued to work it for a while until it was very smooth and uniform, and sealed well around the pipe and deck.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I also fitted the dorade box with 3M 5200 Fast Cure. I taped it off around the bottom outside edge to keep the 5200 off the teak. I set it temporarily in place and marked the spot with pencil marks.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I weighed the box down with a diving belt while it set up but LEARN FROM MY EXPERIENCE! - Make sure you have some shims or blocking to keep the dorade from sliding down the cabin top before the glue sets. It is a substantial curve and the mass is both straight down and off at 45degrees...the box will slide if you don't lock it in place.</div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">7. <strike>Replace water pump and accumulator </strike>(<i>Done</i>), <strike>plumb new buteline pipe to inlet of califont, then hot water pipe to galley and head.</strike></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><strike>8. Run gas line from LPG locker to stove and califont. Make connections at both ends and then remove original hoses.</strike></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><strike>9. Varnish/ oil dorade boxes.</strike></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">10. Modify and install trim from galley top to underside of califont to hide hoses.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Update 22/9/21</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Dont get me started on brass fittings. Did you know that there is a BSPP and a BSPT? Well the P stands for parallel and the T for tapered. I had to find a fitting that was 1/2" BSPP to 3/8" BSPT. I am waiting for it to arrive to connect gas line to califont. </div><br /></div><div><b>Update 19/10/21</b></div><div><br /></div><div>FINISHED!!</div><div><br /></div><div>Plumbed and working, I just needed to build a cover over the hoses to tidy it all up.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>If you're wondering, the satin finish comes from 6 coats of gun stock oil.</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-41584521753483370012021-09-14T18:44:00.001+12:002021-09-14T19:08:59.486+12:00Galvanic Isolator Fun!<p>Although my marina employs isolating transformers for shorepower, I wanted the assurance of having total galvanic isolation.</p><p><br></p><p>I purchased a Zinc Saver isolator rated up to 100amps (double what is required). </p><p>I will install it about a foot from the shorepower socket on the GREEN or 'earth' wire.</p><p>I've had to fix a plywood block to the hull side in the engine room to fasten the isolator securely. The block is 3"x4" and is held in place with 3M 5200.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><b><br></b><p></p><p><b>I wanted to test the unit before installation. Here is the process courtesy of <a href="https://galvanic-isolator.co.uk/how-to-test-a-galvanic-isolator/">Galvanic Isolator UK</a></b></p><p><b><br></b></p><p><b>Testing a Galvanic Isolator with Stud connections</b></p><p><a href="https://galvanic-isolator.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/stud-test-1.jpg"><img loading="lazy" class="alignleft wp-image-12447" src="https://galvanic-isolator.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/stud-test-1-300x208.jpg" alt="testing a marine galvanic isolator with a multimeter" width="400" height="277"></a>To test a Galvanic isolator with connecting studs...</p><p><strong>1).</strong> Set the multimeter to the Semiconductor Test or Diode Test position, and attach one crocodile clip to each stud. Wait 5 seconds then note the reading on the meter. The reading will typically be between 0.9 (Volts) and 1.6 (Volts). </p><p><strong>2). </strong>Now reverse the connections. Wait 5 seconds then note the reading. Your Galvanic isolator is OK if the reading is similar (within about 10%) of the previous reading.</p><p><br></p><p>My readings were 9.7v and 9.4v in either direction. </p><p>I'll install it by carefully cutting the outer cover, cutting the green wire and fixing heat shrink marine terminals to both ends. Fix the terminals to the posts and it's done.</p><p><br></p><p><br></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-69441886490908870352021-09-13T08:36:00.000+12:002021-09-13T08:36:42.493+12:00Brand new '62!I'm thinking ahead now to creating some new cabin cushions. I think I'll find some thicker/firmer foam and fabric to brighten and modernise the look.<div><br /></div><div>Of course, poverty being the mother of invention I've been scouring the country for a sewing machine to replace my Adler (<a href="http://kiwi-nonsuch.blogspot.com/2014/01/a-christmas-present-to-myself.html">Old Adler</a>) (<i>sold some years ago in a downsize)</i>.</div><div><br /></div><div>I've found this 1962 Pfaff 145, a medium duty commercial machine built for canvas and heavy fabrics.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div>I plan to mechanically restore it and replace the high speed clutch motor with a low speed/high torque servo motor. This is a conversion I did with the Adler as well.</div><div><br /></div><div>The table will need a coat of paint on the top, frame, and pedals.</div><div><br /></div><div>An initial cleaning of the machine with kerosene before pulling it to pieces for accurate setup will complete the project.</div><div><br /></div><div>Update: 22/8/21</div><div><br /></div><div>I've decided to peel off the old laminate and paint the wood surface below Heavy sanding and wood plugs in all the old holes. Seal with epoxy, filler, primer and paint.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div>I wanted to use paint that I had at hand, so the top is gloss white enamel and the frame is GOLD! This will take some getting used to.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Installed 550w DC servo motor. I love these motors...quiet, programmable, and HUGE torque.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>12/9/21</div><div><br /></div><div>It's complete and working! I needed to time the needle, but as you can see it's now stitching wonderfully!</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-87133359897290607552021-07-07T10:41:00.003+12:002021-07-11T17:31:52.434+12:00Live aboard LuxuryBecause I live onboard 2-3 nights per week, a good Wifi connection is important (<i>to follow the Nonsuch forum of course</i>). The marina signal is fast but weak due to my distance from the transmitter.<div>This unit, the <a href="https://www.alfa.com.tw/products/wifi_camppro_2?variant=36473968721992">Alfa Wifi Camp Pro 2</a>, includes an antenna to capture distant signals and amplify them within the boat on a local network. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Nice clear signal! Connection is reliable and much faster!</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-64606080126173812992021-05-26T21:10:00.015+12:002021-06-23T07:26:22.602+12:00Fridge trouble!My Danfoss fridge compressor with Isotherm controls threw a fault and I found this on the controller and starter <div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Bit of a worry!! I'll update once I get to the bottom of why the negative terminal has melted.</div><div><br></div><div>Found the problem. Opened up the red controller to find the negative terminal broken off at the base (top spade terminal in photo...broken nearest to camera). Shorting out.</div><div><br></div><div>Vibration over the years I assume</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Update 2/6/21:</div><div><br></div><div>As usual I have spent an inordinate amount of time thinking about this problem, and I've become something more than a layman on the topic of marine refrigeration as a result. I suppose these sort of challenges give me the opportunity to increase my knowledge base.</div><div><br></div><div>The solution to the problem begins with an explanation of how a marine fridge works. The system is made up of at least 3 components:</div><div><br></div><div>1. The compressor - this is the metal canister from which the copper tubing carrying the refrigerant is carried to the 'icebox'. They can be fan cooled or cooled by a water pump or a seawater/ self-pumping system integrated into a through hull (this is what Wireless has).</div><div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0QQ8URQIGolUhpRXR9DGHOuYtL37gCYTtvJdupmtmxR2h6kHqRXIiELn2A7_Isc0KNFEcoA8g_u37VY5WXFfzlEcsFaCk1JFNdJqKwSV0fBw_P8szRFAKAI6GsJCaGT9a1_1xI5xy2jF3/s240/fridge1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="210" data-original-width="240" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0QQ8URQIGolUhpRXR9DGHOuYtL37gCYTtvJdupmtmxR2h6kHqRXIiELn2A7_Isc0KNFEcoA8g_u37VY5WXFfzlEcsFaCk1JFNdJqKwSV0fBw_P8szRFAKAI6GsJCaGT9a1_1xI5xy2jF3/w400-h350/fridge1.jpg" width="400"></a></div><br><div>2. The control module - a device which controllers the compressor pump. They receive inputs from the thermostat. They can be DC only or AC/DC (more on this later...it is much larger). The module is normally attached to the compressor.</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4C7IBnoPLQUg29D9xxAnLt3FqfQ2yJCdy5e1fYwfs9kiAfCxl2gFrUX6-ionREyhBY9tEcJkIldt6GsQQl7YyUp5soANztZy7F8A_DHSMuoo8tFPdqFbSERAqYkuJzSM7gFSgeG_j58S3/s400/IS-SEG00030GA.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="250" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4C7IBnoPLQUg29D9xxAnLt3FqfQ2yJCdy5e1fYwfs9kiAfCxl2gFrUX6-ionREyhBY9tEcJkIldt6GsQQl7YyUp5soANztZy7F8A_DHSMuoo8tFPdqFbSERAqYkuJzSM7gFSgeG_j58S3/w400-h640/IS-SEG00030GA.jpg" width="400"></a></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div><br></div><div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div>3. The thermostat - this device varies from a simple mechanical dial that measures the icebox temperature and signals the control module to turn off and on as required, to a much more complex digital device that adds features like controlling compressor speed, durations, and monitors battery levels/charging.<div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz8oJD7Yfe3RiQjlDBjX6Q_5acFa7tlRvo0m2o1zwjOgWMEiEBGiCfh51uo2M-mxHt8wTblKr4xgrglqR4o0RlZbUQWMoQHt4ecsCq_VtBRvLHygqptRJZFuQfSuTvtNlngxZLJ0sqvFTL/s640/BMGB4874.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz8oJD7Yfe3RiQjlDBjX6Q_5acFa7tlRvo0m2o1zwjOgWMEiEBGiCfh51uo2M-mxHt8wTblKr4xgrglqR4o0RlZbUQWMoQHt4ecsCq_VtBRvLHygqptRJZFuQfSuTvtNlngxZLJ0sqvFTL/w400-h300/BMGB4874.jpg" width="400"></a></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Xfw3hD6GvOK-Zm5ZTnDk3CwBpZe42ZKklYdq2Vmr6c0-8vwsFhdLF7rajbChBGCujBW-tKis53fH6YXnF9Bzk3SO6WjzX9_tJVjZpmEubCMP8hvV0bJzA3dNMeS4J6pwFDiO9rGwUE6A/s887/7-16051GR434634.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="516" data-original-width="887" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Xfw3hD6GvOK-Zm5ZTnDk3CwBpZe42ZKklYdq2Vmr6c0-8vwsFhdLF7rajbChBGCujBW-tKis53fH6YXnF9Bzk3SO6WjzX9_tJVjZpmEubCMP8hvV0bJzA3dNMeS4J6pwFDiO9rGwUE6A/w640-h372/7-16051GR434634.jpg" width="640"></a></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div></div>So with a damaged module and a damaged ASU thermostat unit, I have elected to replace both. Note the need to install a resistor in the feed from the thermostat to the module to control the compressor speed (the ASU units do this automatically but at a cost). My self-pumping cooling system likes the compressor running at 3000rpm, so the resistor is selected to achieve this value (692ohm)<div><div><div><br></div>I will be installing the Elitech digital thermostat shown above. This will be installed in the vertical face above and to the left of the hatch under the sink. It will require a good sized cut-out, so I'll measure twice. The unit is basic, without the Isotherm ASU battery-monitoring feature, but it's cheap, and has a nice display of fridge temperature (the ASU didn't).</div><div><br></div><div>This wiring diagram better describes how to configure a digital thermometer (which requires as 12v supply) into the system. The lettering corresponds to the lettered terminals on the Danfoss module.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghFbtr0nmcuRt1GeuSHFr06hI2iJ1ns1_ko3WmOOeec1t3rJ23-Fh1-9i2YkZcfN3sAY-glCjbBD6Vp5Mq5ONAYuHls45wwvZ1D1uZvVWX1JfnSJCbUslFguQle3yj6pllcdGvBBlSoMT2/s1720/Fridge+Wiring+1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="732" data-original-width="1720" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghFbtr0nmcuRt1GeuSHFr06hI2iJ1ns1_ko3WmOOeec1t3rJ23-Fh1-9i2YkZcfN3sAY-glCjbBD6Vp5Mq5ONAYuHls45wwvZ1D1uZvVWX1JfnSJCbUslFguQle3yj6pllcdGvBBlSoMT2/w605-h314/Fridge+Wiring+1.JPG" width="605"></a></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div><div>Update 17/6/21</div></div></div></div><div><br></div><div>So the module, Elitech thermostat and resistor have arrived. I quickly realised the much larger AC/DC module could not be directly coupled to the compressor as was the previous unit. The difference in size is significant, 2 5/8" deep versus 4 3/4". I consulted with Sean at <a href="https://www.fridgetech.co.nz/" target="_blank">FridgeTech NZ</a> and he has supplied me with an extension cable that will allow me to mount the module elsewhere under the galley sink.</div><div><br></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3AQ3xoMUZ0UvQT-ZjUwsmd_HVrnm6B0Hk5xCpQhwQ4Lh8TOsbXJ0BcOWoEuNm5ZF0-_nShPYZJHovBP8EB_kewp2nYgSyMoX0my7n5jc6lJA11MLzF0GQukIJJbP-shaohgMbwftWvjSP/s640/extension.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3AQ3xoMUZ0UvQT-ZjUwsmd_HVrnm6B0Hk5xCpQhwQ4Lh8TOsbXJ0BcOWoEuNm5ZF0-_nShPYZJHovBP8EB_kewp2nYgSyMoX0my7n5jc6lJA11MLzF0GQukIJJbP-shaohgMbwftWvjSP/w300-h400/extension.jpg" width="300"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Extension cable to mount module remotely</td></tr></tbody></table><br><div><br></div><div>I will likely mount the module on the plywood wall that forms the starboard side of the drawer structure. all of the wiring, both AC/DC and links to the thermostat will lead to this point.</div><div><br></div><div>Here are the connectors I use, all waterproof, self-sealing units:</div><div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjV9o5E9U4a7bVCuOIuy9kcvSvYYyM5iMfeiLNi6xRLjd7RcnX4Sxn0d1ontxS5NUIv3KIerhoTGVbRFO5Zc3XbSAlHsreV83s1Fm0gSqrTkWLWCWkjBIUBmAMCMIYtG5Zu5lBTUHsRxSy/s4032/Connectors.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjV9o5E9U4a7bVCuOIuy9kcvSvYYyM5iMfeiLNi6xRLjd7RcnX4Sxn0d1ontxS5NUIv3KIerhoTGVbRFO5Zc3XbSAlHsreV83s1Fm0gSqrTkWLWCWkjBIUBmAMCMIYtG5Zu5lBTUHsRxSy/w493-h277/Connectors.jpg" width="493"></a></div><br><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Update: Installation Day 1</div><div><br></div><div>While the DC power is already 'onsite' at the fridge, there is no AC power for the new AC/DC module. I have a spare circuit breaker on the AC panel, whish was once used for the air conditioner (long ago removed).</div><div><br></div><div>I started with a 7m length of 3 core, 20amp cable, feeding it down under the sink floor. I pulled up the floor, and ran the cable all the way aft to the engine panel adjacent the chart table. The cable feeds through holes drilled in the ribs.</div><div><br></div><div>Once under the engine panel, the cable goes right, through the panel near the diesel filter, through the locker, through the bulkhead under the chart table, up and back into the electrical cabinet. This is a pretty major undertaking. I left the wire loose in the cabinet for now.</div><div><br></div><div>I also ran the new temperature probe from the sink locker into the fridge box itself, creating a passage through a small opening filled with expanding foam. I will need to spray some foam back into this cavity once I have the wiring completed.</div><div><br></div><div>The digital controller was mounted on the cabinet face below and to the right of the sink. This required covering an area with masking tape, tracing the outline of the controller with pencil, and cutting out the opening using a drill and a jigsaw.</div><div><br></div><div>Once the extension cable to connect the module to the compressor arrives, I will begin wiring up the entire system. This will include the AC connections at both ends, the DC connection at the module, 2 set of wires from the module to the digital controller, and the temp probe (see diagram above).</div><div><br></div><div>If you're going to do a lot of wiring, get good crimpers and a wire stripper, and use the best quality connectors you can find. I make sure to use a heat gun instead of a torch to seal the connectors. The digital thermostat has the type of inputs that require the wire ends to be twisted and soldered.</div><div><br></div><div>Update:</div><div><br></div><div>The extension arrived, and with a further 3hrs of wiring the fridge is quietly humming away.</div><div><br></div><div>It was not without problems as I discovered when I fired the system up for the first time only to be met with an E1 error messag. This was certainly disappointing given the care I took when installing both the AC and DC wiring. In the end the solution was simple.</div><div><br></div><div>While I had been told that the temperature probe, a 2 wire cable, could be wired either way, this is not the case. It only works if you get the wires the correct way round. Trouble is you cant tell... they are both black, and without markings.</div><div><br></div><div>If you are considering this setup, with a digital thermostat, make sure you have a jewellers flat head screwdriver...very small screws.</div><div><br></div><div>Fridge compressors like these are very quiet, so if you hear a noise or vibration, ensure the cooper tubes aren't touching. </div><div><br></div><div>Exciting, I have a functional fridge again!</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><br></div><div><br></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-42785374925952736512021-03-26T19:01:00.003+13:002021-06-02T12:37:58.474+12:00B&G 496/213 Masthead Repair<p> My 15 year old B&G 213 masthead wind meter failed some time ago. The directional indicator at the top is fine, but the cup speed indicator seems to have bad bearings.</p><p>Bearings required (2ea) are:</p><p><br /></p><table border="1" class="zoom-out" data-zoom="1" style="color: black; font-family: sans-serif; zoom: 0.627151;"><tbody><tr><td>030804161</td><td><a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://nzminiaturebearings.com/product/f18-x-516-x-964-inch-fr2-5-zz-flanged-bearing.html&source=gmail&ust=1616722327873000&usg=AFQjCNFPIvPA-ZDmGrSpgwYOHEkjmmgJiA" href="https://nzminiaturebearings.com/product/f18-x-516-x-964-inch-fr2-5-zz-flanged-bearing.html" rel="noreferrer" style="color: #4285f4; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">F1/8 x 5/16 x 9/64</a></td><td>FR2-5-ZZ</td><td>Inch Flanged Bearings</td></tr></tbody></table><p>I'm pulling it apart and will replace the bearings. First obstacle is a stripped 1.5mm set screw.</p><p>I'll try a few options before drilling it out, it will need replacing.</p><p>If I have to, I'll buy the entire bearing housing, which is $150NZD and is part # 213-10-038</p><p><br /></p><p>These things are more than $1000 if you can find one, so worth trying.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZf9ZEipgF5OpCHkDeKKKREnVL08ALESPRNoXzG3Kv6Q5r6n3CETnhbrI_7XrHkWvs-llwkd7lQeOcXFYxlMxqyAN8wQpvuIWkMw_AdfQOLeP9mMi2ZJPB5MEv_OIpghfP97tqPfNZ2h5m/s4032/20210326_185044.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZf9ZEipgF5OpCHkDeKKKREnVL08ALESPRNoXzG3Kv6Q5r6n3CETnhbrI_7XrHkWvs-llwkd7lQeOcXFYxlMxqyAN8wQpvuIWkMw_AdfQOLeP9mMi2ZJPB5MEv_OIpghfP97tqPfNZ2h5m/s320/20210326_185044.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFd9CP5L9CIH5NIwsQ3jP1b9fdzOCq8_BeaxJe5RdIhvGB3gRgEJoP1NO3kb5fvW-0Brk0ToVxsZAoWqJDa1AKdFOw0GYB0w1RRf-aBcNjLAza3S6UOCzTKBrrsjXYGGnn-8ET0NxX7QZD/s4032/20210326_185057.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2268" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFd9CP5L9CIH5NIwsQ3jP1b9fdzOCq8_BeaxJe5RdIhvGB3gRgEJoP1NO3kb5fvW-0Brk0ToVxsZAoWqJDa1AKdFOw0GYB0w1RRf-aBcNjLAza3S6UOCzTKBrrsjXYGGnn-8ET0NxX7QZD/s320/20210326_185057.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Update 11/5/21: I just ended up buying a new bearing for $169NZD. I reassembled it and I'm just waiting for the rigger to re-install along with a new VHF antenna.</p><p><br /></p><p>Update 2/6/21: The rigger has installed the rebuilt wind unit, along with a new VHF antenna and in fact 2 new lenses and bulbs for my tri-color and steaming lights. He also replaced my burgee line from the mast top.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-69113954541338363602021-03-10T09:36:00.005+13:002021-03-26T19:04:47.188+13:00New ship's clock!<p>Wireless has a matching Weems & Plath clock and barometer set. Recently the clock failed, due to what I suspect to be a faulty plastic movement.</p><p>Trouble is...the bloody things sell for nearly $400NZD. No replacement parts are available, even if I could find a way to work on it, as everything was glued together. Even the battery was an oddball (try finding an N battery).</p><p><br /></p><p>So I looked around an found a local alternative here in New Zealand.</p><p><a href="https://www.cruisingelectronics.com/">Cruising Electronics</a><br /></p><p>This is a business run by sailors for sailors and I'm happy to support them.</p><p>This is an outfit based in Cable Bay Northland that market various clocks, barometers etc. I purchased the small version of the clock/tide clock combo. Looking at it online I saw that it was obviously set in a brass case, with a traditional opening to ease battery replacement (the W&P required pulling it off the bulkhead).</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjza1Ol1s023FrecQe1QlEF1rA7CJAFA-Ta_l0qzCnuhAzVmc_gaOZo6Cvi8R1WlFczjBzgcwCb0fDeQSakE2zz21YXp9JJD6pGV7ATXeskgyYdD_zcY-4p0U_CkNsE5cNi-jfMy-vVP9J_/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjza1Ol1s023FrecQe1QlEF1rA7CJAFA-Ta_l0qzCnuhAzVmc_gaOZo6Cvi8R1WlFczjBzgcwCb0fDeQSakE2zz21YXp9JJD6pGV7ATXeskgyYdD_zcY-4p0U_CkNsE5cNi-jfMy-vVP9J_/w640-h640/image.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I bought this clock for $155 NZD. It arrived today and I was amazed. It's heavy, as the case is thick polished brass. The beveled glass face is also very thick, as are the hinges and "dog". </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Opening the case allows the entire clock to swing outward for easy battery changes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEuXnxPSBdftVimFD77fCSX0FtE6E4s-Lvla2isXmkoZe53FXrANWRi_PA9iMQCJZcMpSOUOOdsq2O7g78jQjL-uBb44GD0ezGpM_SJZuDqS2k_dSrAITKXKZ63XM7dhuEsFOEPzAX0HgQ/s2876/20210313_154218.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1744" data-original-width="2876" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEuXnxPSBdftVimFD77fCSX0FtE6E4s-Lvla2isXmkoZe53FXrANWRi_PA9iMQCJZcMpSOUOOdsq2O7g78jQjL-uBb44GD0ezGpM_SJZuDqS2k_dSrAITKXKZ63XM7dhuEsFOEPzAX0HgQ/w640-h388/20210313_154218.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I've now bought the matching barometer.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijeN7tTPpQjvx7B-i77lH61qmr7pO3akX3m9OqwqG5c0fcg8igKh7PMzDb4xXJ-GZ0wz0JLfHoGBRViqIzWlDTX5EUr8jeXawMbzmj6fXYNl1WjS5t5rKXUCMlB6Gvv0Z4tHIyuJu3IZ4J/s4032/16167385715576841666667112417060.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijeN7tTPpQjvx7B-i77lH61qmr7pO3akX3m9OqwqG5c0fcg8igKh7PMzDb4xXJ-GZ0wz0JLfHoGBRViqIzWlDTX5EUr8jeXawMbzmj6fXYNl1WjS5t5rKXUCMlB6Gvv0Z4tHIyuJu3IZ4J/w360-h640/16167385715576841666667112417060.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><p></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-87238356875573960952021-03-08T16:53:00.007+13:002021-03-18T08:22:10.467+13:00Deck Paint<p> It's been a long time since I've updated the blog, due to a combination of available time, but also because the first few years of ownership were a flurry of renovations and improvements. I had reached a point where Wireless didn't 'need' a lot. I had addressed all of the 'must-haves' and life didn't allow for many 'want-to-haves'.</p><p><br /></p><p>Well, the time has come to admit that the deck surfaces can no longer be rejuvenated with polish. The gelcoat is dull and chalky, and more importantly, it has many spider cracks from becoming brittle under the New Zealand sun. My 2014 deck project was focused on the teak work, re-bedding fittings, and a good surface polish. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpKkPOh8m2_0gWh0rM8zUKeBVJnkgLuLsDEljrUv4hASSo3tZFjMFmJ_9CM-_Ld1vgQUZmpqVA_dMvmFVbSdsROSdhI2jhwYvHXCdNt0nGHoy4UDYWKj7Tcjen9YbNYE8Ll2q-LaZcY7Oo/s3264/070.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="553" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpKkPOh8m2_0gWh0rM8zUKeBVJnkgLuLsDEljrUv4hASSo3tZFjMFmJ_9CM-_Ld1vgQUZmpqVA_dMvmFVbSdsROSdhI2jhwYvHXCdNt0nGHoy4UDYWKj7Tcjen9YbNYE8Ll2q-LaZcY7Oo/w737-h553/070.JPG" width="737" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spiders cracks evident around grab rails.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In preparation, I have gone over the deck identifying and fixing imperfections and the spider cracking. To give the crack repairs a fighting chance, I enlarged them with a ball tip cutter on my Dremel tool.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBA1ZWbZICQ1YJiXy4gHrnXOaY9pAmjidql2gC0HaOS9aMT2cSWglAEX8r8HvI9SYUda17I4IJxChsnytSRRf8q0cIPYOMlKiM480lAgV8njl2FAuoo7hrUCUPouEC8l0EMBiZvZY8LnbU/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="1095" data-original-width="1462" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBA1ZWbZICQ1YJiXy4gHrnXOaY9pAmjidql2gC0HaOS9aMT2cSWglAEX8r8HvI9SYUda17I4IJxChsnytSRRf8q0cIPYOMlKiM480lAgV8njl2FAuoo7hrUCUPouEC8l0EMBiZvZY8LnbU/" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This now gave me the ability to get some Epifill to stick. This product is easy to mix and also sands easily. Because it is epoxy-based, it sticks tenaciously and is water proof and durable.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4O8iy8OjMkH2ifOj7GUtdK92ws-A-1qpfJfai6B4TydAFjiHlBvADnXcyRDdGE6dOiZc8AV7-TeMROImvgUAQtaRRuROsb8_N2GHtX5HAkJJrc6vgu8cl_yAN_c88ScODBOqZYsLaWiK6/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="404" data-original-width="710" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4O8iy8OjMkH2ifOj7GUtdK92ws-A-1qpfJfai6B4TydAFjiHlBvADnXcyRDdGE6dOiZc8AV7-TeMROImvgUAQtaRRuROsb8_N2GHtX5HAkJJrc6vgu8cl_yAN_c88ScODBOqZYsLaWiK6/" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><p>I'm afraid I don't have before photos of the spider cracks, but you can imagine they radiated out from stress points like deck fittings, and particularly in the cockpit sole. I'll take a battery of photos moving forward.</p><p><br /></p><p>So the next step, now that I have sanded the Epifill, is to look for areas that may need a 2nd application. After that I'll follow this process:</p><p><br /></p><p></p><ol style="text-align: left;"><li>Select area to paint (<i>I'm going to break it down into sectors to make it manageable</i>)</li><li>Thoroughly wash this area with degreaser and sugar soap</li><li>Wipe surface down with grease and wax remover</li><li>Sand the area with 120grit sandpaper until uniformly dull (<i>to give the primer a surface to bite into</i>), wash or vacuum o remove dust.</li><li>Mask off the area *I am NOT removing deck hardware...this is controversial, but I will do this in time and it is unnecessary given the bedding compound tends to ooze out beyond the footprint of the hardware anyhow.</li><li>Final wipe down with grease and wax remover</li><li>Apply 2 coats of primer, sand with 220g between and after</li><li>Wash or vacuum to remove dust.</li><li>Wipe surface down with grease and wax remover</li><li>Apply 2-3 coats of top coat.</li><li>Mask and apply single coat of Kiwi Grip to non skid areas. Mask radiused areas with 3M stretchy tape.</li><li>Apply new vinyl "Nonsuch" decals to the cabin sides (<i>the pattern was developed by an enterprising owner some years ago</i>)</li></ol><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT237-xcBOIPBwSx3BKzMcA0mxh6n-Sg48oaxOWwvjMttM_0_g9H0-t3-J4cekQKBYdiLGENV0wbdd9a9qzAscERXIe_ek0uvju_SyyBXgmXA9F_wk2Dg1VDi0oVi13y91hf4LenNg3yNB/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="418" data-original-width="1202" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT237-xcBOIPBwSx3BKzMcA0mxh6n-Sg48oaxOWwvjMttM_0_g9H0-t3-J4cekQKBYdiLGENV0wbdd9a9qzAscERXIe_ek0uvju_SyyBXgmXA9F_wk2Dg1VDi0oVi13y91hf4LenNg3yNB/" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfS_ShSO3_CasxF_x4AyAJWpJ7zP9SdYhPbjKsKWO9PY0PNlt0aJYAUye0q_I7dit35fGkuCHpkyHF8m3vWiZ5A2PA1v73RUx1jEzER1o1giYsxa4DXnISgecm9tmnTkV8oZjWcmQiM7h8/s4032/20210315_181036.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfS_ShSO3_CasxF_x4AyAJWpJ7zP9SdYhPbjKsKWO9PY0PNlt0aJYAUye0q_I7dit35fGkuCHpkyHF8m3vWiZ5A2PA1v73RUx1jEzER1o1giYsxa4DXnISgecm9tmnTkV8oZjWcmQiM7h8/w360-h640/20210315_181036.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crack filled and sanded</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWcXuHMmnacLe8BWpIHlimEdihuEUJB6bI7-9mH7W5A_xfbXzxh567ZqhQwWqid9jm3-2TyAQM78uG4qgJPh9CA3WL14SHu-xygIOqZZRgkFB_VRdrAjzi2Jrc2mH2KXPRHNxQx9oU6sm-/s4032/20210315_181056.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2268" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWcXuHMmnacLe8BWpIHlimEdihuEUJB6bI7-9mH7W5A_xfbXzxh567ZqhQwWqid9jm3-2TyAQM78uG4qgJPh9CA3WL14SHu-xygIOqZZRgkFB_VRdrAjzi2Jrc2mH2KXPRHNxQx9oU6sm-/w360-h640/20210315_181056.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1Tauranga, New Zealand-37.7475768 176.1220183-66.057810636178843 140.9657683 -9.4373429638211519 -148.72173169999996tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-66788497781903847432017-02-10T09:12:00.000+13:002017-02-11T12:15:22.484+13:00Beating the drone - Silent Running SR1000 & EPDM FoamUPDATE 10/2/17<br />
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It worked!!<br />
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<a href="https://youtu.be/7iQAHp3oRGA">Result of engine soundproofing. </a><br />
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8/11/16<br />
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The vibrations from the Westerbeke 35D3 cause a large amount of noise in the cabin of my NS30U. Running the engine makes the environment in the cabin rather unpleasant, you certainly wouldn't hold a conversation under power, let alone invite anyone to relax below or have a nap.<br />
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The main reason for this, as I have discovered through research, is that the area under the cockpit is a collection of large flat plywood and fibreglass panels that resonate with vibration from the motor, despite the rubber engine mounts.<br />
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The largest culprits are the plywood panel separating the engine area from the cabin (behind the stairs), the sole of the cockpit, the cockpit hatches, and the plywood panels on the starboard side of the engine that form the storage cabinet and enclosure for the fuel tank.<br />
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Short of building a contained engine box, which would be almost impossible given the irregularity of interface between the plywood panels and the cockpit sole, the placement of the raw water inlet and wet exhaust, I needed to find a solution that absorbed the vibration.<br />
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A moment to discuss this...the droning noise in the cabin is caused by vibration, not 'engine noise'. The engine is not particularly 'noisy'...the exhaust is contained in the wet system, the air intake noise is minimal, and the engine is in excellent tune. The noise I'm experiencing is akin to being inside a large drum, everything is vibrating, you can feel it in the palm of your hand...from the cockpit sole and hatch covers, to the doors on the cabin cupboards and the fuel tank.<br />
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So how do you stop vibration? One way, which doesn't involve lining the entire engine area with expensive mats, has been developed by a company called Silent Running<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvTIdCpVLhPGAz4zKNY60uzEu-nrj3nMZNQr5Nxhzba51JC1DkDbv2qjsB6LsCShGX54SSb2m9SSczQM28iPEomhL4sVOPPMYyVNWtRJRmjuOcyZfmjLlyL8q2g_GP8RsTiMMIb2zxYiiY/s1600/SR_Masthead_WP_5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="43" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvTIdCpVLhPGAz4zKNY60uzEu-nrj3nMZNQr5Nxhzba51JC1DkDbv2qjsB6LsCShGX54SSb2m9SSczQM28iPEomhL4sVOPPMYyVNWtRJRmjuOcyZfmjLlyL8q2g_GP8RsTiMMIb2zxYiiY/s400/SR_Masthead_WP_5.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<a href="http://www.silentcoating.com/sr1000/">Silent Running SR1000 Marine coating</a><br />
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<em><span style="color: #586f96;"><strong>Silent Running SR 1000</strong></span> is a VOC compliant, water based product that is easily applied with a spray application. This sound damping paint can be used on the interior of the hull, stringers, engine beds, bulkheads, ceilings, hatches, engine boxes, bow thrusters, HVAC units, duct work, generator covers and mechanical enclosures. SR 1000 is designed as a “permanent” coating and has excellent adhesion to all metal, fiberglass, and wood. The key to Silent Running is to build it up, in multiple coats, to a minimum of 40mil final application thickness (depending on thickness of substrate).</em><br />
<em><span style="color: #586f96;"><strong>Silent Running</strong></span> will dry to the touch in roughly one hour, at which time you can re-apply. Clean up with water is quick and easy. Silent Running dries to an off-white color, brightening any enclosed areas. Comparatively, Silent Running is easier to apply than the standard foam tiles, provides a reduced amount of time for application, and is designed as a permanent coating.</em><br />
<em><span style="color: #586f96;"><strong>Silent Running</strong></span> is more effective than traditional damping methods, not only due to its chemical properties, but also because of the complete adhesion to the substrate regardless of curves or angles. Silent Running will not absorb water or chemicals and will endure the extreme conditions in the marine environment. Typically Silent Running is roughly half the cost of traditional foam products and a third the weight. Silent Running weighs 8 oz. per sq. ft. at a 50 mil final application thickness.</em><br />
<em><span style="color: #586f96;"><strong>Silent Running</strong></span> can withstand temperatures from -30F up to 250F. With typical applications for which Silent Running was designed, we provide a 6-8 dBa reduction (roughly 60% of the noise) with the minimum application thickness recommended based on substrate thickness. This is a significant reduction. The effects of noise and vibration on crew members would be reduced considerably, the working environment improved overall and the life of the vessel extended.</em><br />
<em>(courtesy Silent Running website)</em><br />
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Check out this demonstration:<br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRJsWGh9wRY">Video Demonstration</a><br />
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I've ordered 4l of the SR1000 product, and will apply it starting at the engine mounting stringers, working away from the engine in all directions until I have the required coats of every surface within the engine room/sub-cockpit area. This will include some tricky areas like the underside of the cockpit seats and vertical surfaces.<br />
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The side-benefit of this project is that the entire sub-cockpit area will be painted white, which will brighten and clean up it's appearance. It will also form part of the larger project to re-organise the electrical wiring and fuel hoses running around this area.<br />
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I will add to this post as the project begins.<br />
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<strong>UPDATE 28/11/16</strong><br />
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Before image of the hull floor adjacent the engine:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Swboalo6zV4nj70iT7KY0TBiueF0MMyk-Wur9WOpLjxsS84KlucR37M-QhSz_gs3J9HUpAuF6hJekxT5ku7ycnaPsK1ouvJlC10MWhajno9kXvrM8BJzDslyf_DXP6uJopSFQ5fqe7Kj/s1600/before+floor.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Swboalo6zV4nj70iT7KY0TBiueF0MMyk-Wur9WOpLjxsS84KlucR37M-QhSz_gs3J9HUpAuF6hJekxT5ku7ycnaPsK1ouvJlC10MWhajno9kXvrM8BJzDslyf_DXP6uJopSFQ5fqe7Kj/s640/before+floor.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Following the application of the Silent Running SR1000 at a rate of about 1 litre per square meter:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyoWaqiNuqU0CS7AvdQ452ZiovEVr5yKFCrIi8-VNKuc45RE2VGczuwAWEJez6NksMob4hH9XyCEwgK8jd9stRTMc7AjmNWgeEj3dWMLPGhj3SyqjG2rP6OwKg9ItsjrBuW4xkE9sy7AFo/s1600/after+floor.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyoWaqiNuqU0CS7AvdQ452ZiovEVr5yKFCrIi8-VNKuc45RE2VGczuwAWEJez6NksMob4hH9XyCEwgK8jd9stRTMc7AjmNWgeEj3dWMLPGhj3SyqjG2rP6OwKg9ItsjrBuW4xkE9sy7AFo/s640/after+floor.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Because SR1000 can be painted over with any water-based paint, I intend on adding a couple coats of Zinsser 123 on top to further brighten the engine room and make it easy to clean.</div>
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Next is to wait receipt of my foil-lined foam pads, which I will apply to all the vertical surfaces and the underside of the cockpit, to further absorb noise.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitoe8ExT4BvxZ8a3xHcfmjl58Ym41jgoEr_Lp5_SIMFjTu0A5wWYCs9tH1NLfQr6aR3nI994XxsZHTNGGzZ5WP3pbvKiYCyByWUKH9pi5LAf4qWfmhTsj8hFMaG31Y6hevIYQnG35AvhTc/s1600/pl13497210-automobile_engine_hood_door_sound_insulation_foam_rubber_press_line_aluminum_foil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="462" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitoe8ExT4BvxZ8a3xHcfmjl58Ym41jgoEr_Lp5_SIMFjTu0A5wWYCs9tH1NLfQr6aR3nI994XxsZHTNGGzZ5WP3pbvKiYCyByWUKH9pi5LAf4qWfmhTsj8hFMaG31Y6hevIYQnG35AvhTc/s640/pl13497210-automobile_engine_hood_door_sound_insulation_foam_rubber_press_line_aluminum_foil.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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UPDATE: 4/12/16<br />
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I've completed the first panel installation of the closed cell, foil-faced, adhesive backed sound proofing mat. This product is approx. 10mm thick, with a robust foil facing and adhesive back. I plan on augmenting the overhead installations with some additional high-strength spray glue.<br />
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This panel is a removable panel that live to port of the engine, allowing the port side locker to be used for stowing fenders etc, without the risk of them rolling down toward the engine.<br />
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Built from marine ply, painted, and then covered in the sound proofing material:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5RrDYVz8ezwSi7BTdr4r6kCMe6n239-rY86RhYcMYOeecbAvrxAZXafYzt_4LmBUGp46GNlmQhkDS5WFxtPC7SmHqLVk4-cFrK8wMUUKwIKuK1zwCFvlT_a4cxoT6x7CCdcacJj0NzBcf/s1600/IMG_5387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5RrDYVz8ezwSi7BTdr4r6kCMe6n239-rY86RhYcMYOeecbAvrxAZXafYzt_4LmBUGp46GNlmQhkDS5WFxtPC7SmHqLVk4-cFrK8wMUUKwIKuK1zwCFvlT_a4cxoT6x7CCdcacJj0NzBcf/s640/IMG_5387.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">6 meters should be enough</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEM2QNc5HB9laQozAvF_AtWv12Ybb1hByC4dWqnXdpiO9Fjr7hy7TfhQC4UnuU3NKGxC3Hh9Anctt8us4DdBRyJSTU42-LUCfzgQHnmC8TXMW660wGaoW4PKUxh_lFm0in3ZL6QpXDYqdn/s1600/IMG_5389.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEM2QNc5HB9laQozAvF_AtWv12Ybb1hByC4dWqnXdpiO9Fjr7hy7TfhQC4UnuU3NKGxC3Hh9Anctt8us4DdBRyJSTU42-LUCfzgQHnmC8TXMW660wGaoW4PKUxh_lFm0in3ZL6QpXDYqdn/s640/IMG_5389.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The edges and joints are sealed with aluminium HVAC tape, which is very sticky.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPiS9kou-8f-rpkQEsQb99A49m5WLMz26-pbnFmYhjK7_K3DzLq-X4G8ruPvDYnvELLliqiL0zuHNc6Vvl6hzUnmyH1YX19hIrEcajidg7IaRkwwjLP9PGsm1eLFXI90iaKVQF0_vUfld7/s1600/IMG_5390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="413" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPiS9kou-8f-rpkQEsQb99A49m5WLMz26-pbnFmYhjK7_K3DzLq-X4G8ruPvDYnvELLliqiL0zuHNc6Vvl6hzUnmyH1YX19hIrEcajidg7IaRkwwjLP9PGsm1eLFXI90iaKVQF0_vUfld7/s640/IMG_5390.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The completed panel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<strong>Update: 12/12/16</strong>
The soundproofing is gathering pace now, with the engine room hatch complete and the area around the fuel filter complete. This requires some careful measuring and patience.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjotWijc8JdW4o1-teQbO0DyomxqkMwnpajcgHSjYd_UUhjrWCmMMfHJ8jLTtwXpT8AGrpIh9XndCwpf-IUdx2YmKcRmzI2cPJ2SJd4epJsFX5gWKJQkT8A8oSCiR0FdSUm5BHjvnGN-KWi/s1600/IMG_5410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjotWijc8JdW4o1-teQbO0DyomxqkMwnpajcgHSjYd_UUhjrWCmMMfHJ8jLTtwXpT8AGrpIh9XndCwpf-IUdx2YmKcRmzI2cPJ2SJd4epJsFX5gWKJQkT8A8oSCiR0FdSUm5BHjvnGN-KWi/s640/IMG_5410.JPG" width="480" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0t4WA5MuYZajzHJtlV9AciWbji-TjLwLzgewOLObwQ3Gb0lEWfDTDUqQ4syAHljcwbJHYB5dGNznk8mQITzvd2dZ16MQbd1selgknPXTcn5Igy-wUlyG8SY7vUDTHglE-TgVeVg_WczCC/s1600/IMG_5413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0t4WA5MuYZajzHJtlV9AciWbji-TjLwLzgewOLObwQ3Gb0lEWfDTDUqQ4syAHljcwbJHYB5dGNznk8mQITzvd2dZ16MQbd1selgknPXTcn5Igy-wUlyG8SY7vUDTHglE-TgVeVg_WczCC/s640/IMG_5413.JPG" width="640" /></a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaaCouPxqRU8TDQlc-TFZWH7UcXRPTI0PeWAZhmClCRP0kYXPfsbW9kG84F1qZbVZ9iaGLk6nYbruoqNz5cd9cD9Q91oTw7JGlT92CDszNZ-cJyPVHKipdRBbSBw5qbJ5_tWwVudELM0oX/s1600/IMG_5418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaaCouPxqRU8TDQlc-TFZWH7UcXRPTI0PeWAZhmClCRP0kYXPfsbW9kG84F1qZbVZ9iaGLk6nYbruoqNz5cd9cD9Q91oTw7JGlT92CDszNZ-cJyPVHKipdRBbSBw5qbJ5_tWwVudELM0oX/s640/IMG_5418.JPG" width="480" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOVH-6AeOqQWdhC1hFYczAxCU5w9Ad1I7IQ-B-YqIg_bnjdiXOkCHZ1bUTDcSPJ85WqbQMwsokpP_W3mNKjWyxqeM8-Go1pl3Xfm5WHlAZlmt79f9SHsL1q-i33cNeZ1Jd1ohFrh4xucbH/s1600/IMG_5417.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOVH-6AeOqQWdhC1hFYczAxCU5w9Ad1I7IQ-B-YqIg_bnjdiXOkCHZ1bUTDcSPJ85WqbQMwsokpP_W3mNKjWyxqeM8-Go1pl3Xfm5WHlAZlmt79f9SHsL1q-i33cNeZ1Jd1ohFrh4xucbH/s640/IMG_5417.JPG" width="480" /></a>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-9484760145680556362017-01-03T21:21:00.002+13:002017-01-03T21:21:20.629+13:00Small sewing projectI needed to both find a home for my mix of imperial and metric spanners and also take my lighter-weight Singer 401G for a spin.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrkEZiC6w80Wh2_5q7RN39ZaXvWGcxonTO_5E_aiNe_GsR5dM2XHi7plqctPLcS7eFT5QkoKsIFtYsJSJpSF2ebPf3ZgBkEEmAT7xKMajwQInK0x_EKhD6L431a6PTp1zRiU-9w33ieeT7/s1600/IMG_0123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrkEZiC6w80Wh2_5q7RN39ZaXvWGcxonTO_5E_aiNe_GsR5dM2XHi7plqctPLcS7eFT5QkoKsIFtYsJSJpSF2ebPf3ZgBkEEmAT7xKMajwQInK0x_EKhD6L431a6PTp1zRiU-9w33ieeT7/s320/IMG_0123.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZqhYOjEFmXJ-N-Jy52Ua5L3Zy6k_6nTcqaiU2cYP-sFrl0z1I2maYmfI72_VTRqa12V6ursT7PaNQwHlTGzUxAAFcWcrBT0oh_jZ22UN_9x3SDCTkD1LBMbmi5Vu5ZCSYNZnqWByyDurg/s1600/IMG_0124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZqhYOjEFmXJ-N-Jy52Ua5L3Zy6k_6nTcqaiU2cYP-sFrl0z1I2maYmfI72_VTRqa12V6ursT7PaNQwHlTGzUxAAFcWcrBT0oh_jZ22UN_9x3SDCTkD1LBMbmi5Vu5ZCSYNZnqWByyDurg/s320/IMG_0124.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpwwPiFwWF3CSQ6ySyDo8N-0QLkVNl8niNjSjXUNAlQFvBTciwd1-4MMkBdFQ98o1LuBDq-2OV8D_ZIe42LAk0vgbQTgyLFe6Sv41pkiNlDKT-dG13806kbCwXmeKjaNYQQ4TCJva2IgEH/s1600/IMG_0125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpwwPiFwWF3CSQ6ySyDo8N-0QLkVNl8niNjSjXUNAlQFvBTciwd1-4MMkBdFQ98o1LuBDq-2OV8D_ZIe42LAk0vgbQTgyLFe6Sv41pkiNlDKT-dG13806kbCwXmeKjaNYQQ4TCJva2IgEH/s320/IMG_0125.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Y8yFgbSamO-zTV1SIhRh2_9bM9t-mni_2x2JaMwBamUh6SqElKjDLpPEOO9XKjMomp10zFKDmFDMvuqYQANoLpZzsm6uuOzgjAv02h0Cu9tLZlJe7cKpMkDTUH0i-scrLrsQCfHlw2lP/s1600/IMG_0126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Y8yFgbSamO-zTV1SIhRh2_9bM9t-mni_2x2JaMwBamUh6SqElKjDLpPEOO9XKjMomp10zFKDmFDMvuqYQANoLpZzsm6uuOzgjAv02h0Cu9tLZlJe7cKpMkDTUH0i-scrLrsQCfHlw2lP/s320/IMG_0126.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-79539189330213705982016-12-11T16:40:00.000+13:002016-12-12T07:50:24.817+13:00New engine mountsUnfortunately my relatively new (6 years) forward port engine mount is badly corroded, likely from allowing saltwater to saturate it as I change the heat exchanger zinc.<br />
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I have decided to have the professionals replace all 4 engine mounts and align the shaft, as having mounts of the same type and age will help quell vibration.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3eSfaNGWDk1UwRlyYk-7L3iYryKDC058zOjW0NGi8ZiOdLzmhIrVEs0WK-Vg0Uaij7tsWG-8uhsCrr1EBkqQ8y_VjPIkhhEdE3qUiUUJj9bpStM-7h0c9AQMco6dsr9vNHK7dyo568Irl/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3eSfaNGWDk1UwRlyYk-7L3iYryKDC058zOjW0NGi8ZiOdLzmhIrVEs0WK-Vg0Uaij7tsWG-8uhsCrr1EBkqQ8y_VjPIkhhEdE3qUiUUJj9bpStM-7h0c9AQMco6dsr9vNHK7dyo568Irl/s640/FullSizeRender.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the corrosion of the baseplate.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyVLa_vbI9BBGcJjUvfkZZoKuVG9ZhQtR1iNNG_hYGbWF03tEJ7sS2ZvDJltewvvuEtjIto4p6rw-CpsNGm_JjkZOyi5kfXS8nhSOBUiKpQ7ELcrGIXjbIgHZR14Y52FMTi1oT-uT2rYl0/s1600/popim.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="556" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyVLa_vbI9BBGcJjUvfkZZoKuVG9ZhQtR1iNNG_hYGbWF03tEJ7sS2ZvDJltewvvuEtjIto4p6rw-CpsNGm_JjkZOyi5kfXS8nhSOBUiKpQ7ELcrGIXjbIgHZR14Y52FMTi1oT-uT2rYl0/s640/popim.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New R&D engine mount</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL4x1LN8pwYCC6LdeVRM8xhRxrEr9ghOGsd4wVKP06Td6Wyo4cOKCAgfmx6yQ4TyoKoEGPh0W8OvCKPUi7zJ9xJl_1jbXl_-mP0haWTbajznUDNfNO0GmlA1xuK1KTJnIjJVm_d4mr6fw0/s1600/IMG_5415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL4x1LN8pwYCC6LdeVRM8xhRxrEr9ghOGsd4wVKP06Td6Wyo4cOKCAgfmx6yQ4TyoKoEGPh0W8OvCKPUi7zJ9xJl_1jbXl_-mP0haWTbajznUDNfNO0GmlA1xuK1KTJnIjJVm_d4mr6fw0/s640/IMG_5415.JPG" width="433" /></a>Update:12/12/16
The new engine mounts are in, and they look very robust.
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-45361336500834580662016-11-28T11:16:00.003+13:002016-11-28T11:16:49.631+13:00New mainsail coverI finally found someone to build me a new mainsail cover, mine was almost completely destroyed after over 15 years in service.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZyhMy4vtQJcqamE1fQVdywBBoy5cjgirXiMfavjmpCgWXxE7m4tdKxtwq27NH9QSN35twPYN7_OModu9zRbi6ce5xX3a43h-Hv4U-SFzkKvk7w5SywxHBt6tTfxtmWeQpJC8w5iMAobUA/s1600/new+mainsail+cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZyhMy4vtQJcqamE1fQVdywBBoy5cjgirXiMfavjmpCgWXxE7m4tdKxtwq27NH9QSN35twPYN7_OModu9zRbi6ce5xX3a43h-Hv4U-SFzkKvk7w5SywxHBt6tTfxtmWeQpJC8w5iMAobUA/s640/new+mainsail+cover.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-59853408606420239762016-10-23T23:13:00.001+13:002016-10-25T08:23:42.857+13:00Happy Birthday EngineToday I accomplished the following in a mere 11 hours:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Drained coolant</li>
<li>Flushed cooling system</li>
<li>Replaced thermostat</li>
<li>Replaced coolant</li>
<li>Flushed engine with oil additive</li>
<li>Replaced engine oil</li>
<li>Replaced alternator belt</li>
<li>Replaced transmission fluid</li>
<li>Cleaned engine</li>
<li>Touched up paint</li>
<li>Replaced diesel filter & cleaned separator bowl</li>
</ul>
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This tool helped enormously, borrowed from work, a vacuum oil pump.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-15435803178806976822016-10-21T13:37:00.000+13:002016-10-21T13:37:17.275+13:00Electrical upgrades<div>
I ha<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue light" , , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">d been noticing that the electric head was getting intermittent, and was slightly dimming the lights when used. </span></div>
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I investigated, and found 14awg wire, with a half dozen old butt connections. This line terminated on a glass fuse block from the 1980's. </div>
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The head pump draws 20amp, and the run is 7meters !!! Clearly this was dodgy. </div>
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I ripped out the wire from pump to panel, ran 10awg (5mm2) and installed a new blade fuse block. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXUhEeEp7DDwQ79pww_vW8ekoNQlU700sQD8z0XPNv45cUW6ZKEFwh5eoNwth4eu1umN2ur9vrzXErGWTKwsa8yNJf5w1SdnkA75i-L_sdRERy_JJLkFcITSpLmPSG2BmvwhXGx5P6CJFf/s640/blogger-image-79540875.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXUhEeEp7DDwQ79pww_vW8ekoNQlU700sQD8z0XPNv45cUW6ZKEFwh5eoNwth4eu1umN2ur9vrzXErGWTKwsa8yNJf5w1SdnkA75i-L_sdRERy_JJLkFcITSpLmPSG2BmvwhXGx5P6CJFf/s640/blogger-image-79540875.jpg" /></a></div>
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I made sure to use marine connectors, and my high-end wire strippers and crimper (good tools are really important with wiring). </div>
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Once sorted, the pump roared to life, and spun 50% faster than it had been. </div>
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Huge resistance in the old cable run, had it been a constant draw device, there may have been a fire. </div>
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How did this happen? The head was installed by the previous owner, and he had no idea on wire gauge - amperage - length. </div>
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I have a free app that calculates wire size, fuses and breakers. There really is no reason to bodge together a wiring job. If in doubt, check online. How many amps the device draws, how long is the run, is it in the engine room, how many wires will be bundled together. It's all straightforward. </div>
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Get some ratchet crimpers and side pull strippers. Use marine heat shrink connectors and tinned wire. </div>
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In any case, all sorted. </div>
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I'm going to redo all the wiring in this way, one circuit at a time.</div>
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Beware owner-modifications!!!</div>
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John</div>
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<b>UPDATE 13/12/14</b></div>
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I have finally made some real progress with the improvement/modification of the onboard DC electrical system. </div>
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At the moment the positive leads to all of the electrical loads on the boat go directly from the hot side of the circuit breakers. This is not good practice. Rather there should be a distribution block that allows a short and organised lead from the breaker to the block, then from the block to the load. </div>
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I also needed to create organised and efficient bus bars for the ground wires from all of these loads. </div>
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Finally, I needed to add all of this in a way that completely-militarised my electrical cabinet, with every wire run cleanly and securely. </div>
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Step one was to give myself a firm platform for mounting all of these blocks, bars, as well as the existing hubs and regulator. </div>
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Here's what I built, a simple plywood panel, with a horizontal shelf that maximises the surface area in an otherwise cramped area. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzKdfzEHqzPlekEW8dn0Z04xaqPcS9JL9Ck9sUfLi4D0ufUYPcSeJe6QvMwel-XpDrZQldFrvoFEFJu0lsqTGzcN4bhoFcSESpmL_dtECW6pVvVCuobD04CJO2AP9heDnYmxSFFdVdRMlG/s640/blogger-image--1233375278.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzKdfzEHqzPlekEW8dn0Z04xaqPcS9JL9Ck9sUfLi4D0ufUYPcSeJe6QvMwel-XpDrZQldFrvoFEFJu0lsqTGzcN4bhoFcSESpmL_dtECW6pVvVCuobD04CJO2AP9heDnYmxSFFdVdRMlG/s640/blogger-image--1233375278.jpg" /></a></div>
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Painted and installed:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaPBSvlOelgsSksBPhFUg5lYGWYxPanNeB_yiBmPZLCOP9O878uhFCi3VivockeTOD_0GnI7lfjYIC6IAl-Ot9Io82qie4XZ-CF6GpPV0DRMXutM8BnByvsfOgwTALzF4DPFI7xgBMnN2U/s640/blogger-image-1023198122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaPBSvlOelgsSksBPhFUg5lYGWYxPanNeB_yiBmPZLCOP9O878uhFCi3VivockeTOD_0GnI7lfjYIC6IAl-Ot9Io82qie4XZ-CF6GpPV0DRMXutM8BnByvsfOgwTALzF4DPFI7xgBMnN2U/s640/blogger-image-1023198122.jpg" /></a></div>
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And the wiring/mounting underway:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyj2M4u7AVnCyAuvHqijgs9eVU7JhriEpft5SKTxFWlpjUSIsjryLlYug-Jwz1eMzylh8ofdLRpWGwD7MjJ-RXdiIzqMmUXdQFIA4fB-XTINN62FGClwGj2nchpuYPE_2RvRw5i8ehXMKQ/s640/blogger-image--350382816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyj2M4u7AVnCyAuvHqijgs9eVU7JhriEpft5SKTxFWlpjUSIsjryLlYug-Jwz1eMzylh8ofdLRpWGwD7MjJ-RXdiIzqMmUXdQFIA4fB-XTINN62FGClwGj2nchpuYPE_2RvRw5i8ehXMKQ/s640/blogger-image--350382816.jpg" /></a></div>
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The shelf will host the distribution block (min 14 points required) and the area just below the alternator regulator is an ideal spot for the new 18 way Z-bar bus bar:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxWobPysiD-X6DdGxUE8hGcifYqjbNIcYNODfupNCTEF52LVF2WQXQUx-6zFU2URZoLB5qM5NV6mukxF5LANIfMYUksc-KNSda7dTeqgLulf-Wuhcc9M4ZtrRn3hiqPIwKdu3UglXTPmle/s640/blogger-image-69405274.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxWobPysiD-X6DdGxUE8hGcifYqjbNIcYNODfupNCTEF52LVF2WQXQUx-6zFU2URZoLB5qM5NV6mukxF5LANIfMYUksc-KNSda7dTeqgLulf-Wuhcc9M4ZtrRn3hiqPIwKdu3UglXTPmle/s640/blogger-image-69405274.jpg" /></a></div>
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(Photo is of the 10 way unit)</div>
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It's all underway now!</div>
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<b>UPDATE 16/12/14</b></div>
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The work is now well underway, with the installation of the terminal blocks, the ground bus bar, and the acquisition of 14 new Blue Sea circuit breakers. </div>
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I've removed the brittle old LED indicators, which were a mixed bag of spade terminals (do NOT use spade terminals on a boat) and tape. </div>
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This helps clean up the panel by removing 28 leads and terminals. I can now methodically upgrade each circuit one at a time. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMndYWgj_o26UW_tyyf0T_jg71u64DRk45tt4U12jEWxkmHJMrGT_HARpue5s552zXckrDwcR8Vifqrwx3GkQv0KymHO8lKoHGt65DeikWLRrp0I5DPo4Df9J4HyhU9G87bV3WJWbbZz0f/s640/blogger-image--1685079773.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMndYWgj_o26UW_tyyf0T_jg71u64DRk45tt4U12jEWxkmHJMrGT_HARpue5s552zXckrDwcR8Vifqrwx3GkQv0KymHO8lKoHGt65DeikWLRrp0I5DPo4Df9J4HyhU9G87bV3WJWbbZz0f/s640/blogger-image--1685079773.jpg" /></a></div>
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Spaghetti!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFl_e-gMm0ScBKyVPR2YnhI-kZWgEEMK4CY7Op8PpYN8PpPNUg99MTe8Hobz6WT2VPFJG_s6UHtckjusYzp4dnorBu-yBAQsMxLVlLwOf41N-ifgyZcKoonprF0dnqijVytFCqHnNbqm3o/s640/blogger-image-1190070340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFl_e-gMm0ScBKyVPR2YnhI-kZWgEEMK4CY7Op8PpYN8PpPNUg99MTe8Hobz6WT2VPFJG_s6UHtckjusYzp4dnorBu-yBAQsMxLVlLwOf41N-ifgyZcKoonprF0dnqijVytFCqHnNbqm3o/s640/blogger-image-1190070340.jpg" /></a></div>
LEDs gone, some room to move<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhEWnhQcFCImJFvDP2ac_2FWx1E-qmRy2IVodmre1DNanFI-2qDW1ClBg7RPmyCrFiDzheHfQD9-soI3BqJKKNNzxJpfvQOSTBvT5LjXWdBkm0DYSivdEk95Si4mPgtWVSB3jt_JQ1vZ_A/s640/blogger-image--96999385.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhEWnhQcFCImJFvDP2ac_2FWx1E-qmRy2IVodmre1DNanFI-2qDW1ClBg7RPmyCrFiDzheHfQD9-soI3BqJKKNNzxJpfvQOSTBvT5LjXWdBkm0DYSivdEk95Si4mPgtWVSB3jt_JQ1vZ_A/s640/blogger-image--96999385.jpg" /></a></div>
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Typical corrosion and inferior terminal. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkn48SCHjCkKnanq7Cfiy6VtyOF6HQciNEMq9oc3cgIJertbnj6hIqxeTXkqfCgJKkl4Ek4Q_CIgDFtsa-kUwW5t-rZb0m7iqa6mrWzC99IJ5opQmr-pVyg3tFuXD9u6hOG15v5pKbKWbH/s640/blogger-image-715319249.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkn48SCHjCkKnanq7Cfiy6VtyOF6HQciNEMq9oc3cgIJertbnj6hIqxeTXkqfCgJKkl4Ek4Q_CIgDFtsa-kUwW5t-rZb0m7iqa6mrWzC99IJ5opQmr-pVyg3tFuXD9u6hOG15v5pKbKWbH/s640/blogger-image-715319249.jpg" /></a></div>
You can see the 16 x 30amp terminal points, 2 B&G hubs, the regulator and in the top left the Marinco Z-bar grounding bus. Only the new LEDs will be grounded directly to the panel bus(es).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs0ZymDWS8-VKBWTkgZ-VoWLIWfP1ChT8M7kcdjJJ6vIpDXYwHemMV-Nf5rTQ3dQczEVWkMmR5qTQ_zO7K_AibVHZVptj_8sshMmAme5cFBFSsne5szzyTXULwT-Xyi8naskwAt5q9yvv0/s640/blogger-image--1791530843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs0ZymDWS8-VKBWTkgZ-VoWLIWfP1ChT8M7kcdjJJ6vIpDXYwHemMV-Nf5rTQ3dQczEVWkMmR5qTQ_zO7K_AibVHZVptj_8sshMmAme5cFBFSsne5szzyTXULwT-Xyi8naskwAt5q9yvv0/s640/blogger-image--1791530843.jpg" /></a></div>
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<b>UPDATE 19/12/14</b><br />
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I have essentially completed the renovation/re wire of the circuit panel. It took approximately 20 hours. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiShLB1FLkx7Yeg1Q9RHd9qKY61kdoZyDBDjPvFBr0mLLQsUnpZyH90h_1zCIualzX3ro2Mn-V9aAzbFRvxBmJROFSxJjY4lEZK5IZJOFhDZu6qRqulKrtAtqAJiaShX0r8p7FTxLpS5S0k/s640/blogger-image--1863935321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiShLB1FLkx7Yeg1Q9RHd9qKY61kdoZyDBDjPvFBr0mLLQsUnpZyH90h_1zCIualzX3ro2Mn-V9aAzbFRvxBmJROFSxJjY4lEZK5IZJOFhDZu6qRqulKrtAtqAJiaShX0r8p7FTxLpS5S0k/s640/blogger-image--1863935321.jpg" /></a></div>
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AFTER:</div>
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Now to tidy up the wiring as it leads from the cabinet through the bulkheads under the cockpit. But perhaps another day...</div>
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High quality LED indicators purchased from www.bizfarm.co.nz</div>
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Be sure to ask for the 12v units, as they also supply 24v </div>
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<strong>UPDATE: 21/10/16</strong><br />
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I'm now planning to continue the electrical upgrades to the boat, by organising and re-working much of her electrical wiring. I have mentioned previously that the engine room/back of cabin bulkhead is a nest of wiring bundles, un-labelled and running everywhere.<br />
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In order to begin to sort this mess out, I need to identify and label each wire. The challenge of tracing each wire back to its source will be made possible with the purchase of a wire tracker/tracer, which energises each wire at its source and then allows me to find it remotely.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1YhCYEpgG2DBxvCYypgmkQ3KdLACIsTTRICrL0jpSkcgAReRw9IUzuZJqUQnvxenZzfjp36CtwRr8-v_zmOvtYM4cpvIJePvIhyo2TTXa2rZGaa3emG1SMqyjSxLOuCMAj47Ts2NvqrM0/s1600/Capture.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1YhCYEpgG2DBxvCYypgmkQ3KdLACIsTTRICrL0jpSkcgAReRw9IUzuZJqUQnvxenZzfjp36CtwRr8-v_zmOvtYM4cpvIJePvIhyo2TTXa2rZGaa3emG1SMqyjSxLOuCMAj47Ts2NvqrM0/s320/Capture.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sperry Instruments ET64220</td></tr>
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</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-57037654888349003122016-10-16T20:02:00.001+13:002016-10-16T20:07:31.919+13:00Solar PanelMy engine starting battery is now 7 years old, and has long ago begun to exhibit signs of failing. While old, I also suspect the lack of any charging system has contributed to its demise. While my 50 amp charger has a trickle charger wired to the starter, in my current marina I can only use the 30amp charger, which does not.<br />
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I purchased a new 900CCA marine start battery but knew things needed to change.<br />
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I devised a plan to install a 30 watt solar panel and a dual outlet regulator, one which charges the starter, then the house battery bank, in that order.<br />
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I completed the installation today, using the required waterproof wiring and connectors above deck.<br />
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30 watt flexible panel, produces 0.9amp</div>
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Dual bank regulator. </div>
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I now have the ability to charge my house batteries under engine power, through either shore chargers, through generator or through solar. The start battery under engine power, solar, or the 50 amp charger ashore.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-39321271580403576992015-01-10T07:54:00.000+13:002015-01-11T22:54:51.511+13:00Dry Dock 2014/2015<div>
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<br></div>Hello<br>
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The boat was pulled from the water this past Saturday with the following tasks in mind:</div>
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Paint the bottom </div>
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PropSpeed on the propeller and shaft</div>
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Polish the hull</div>
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Paint the three stripes</div>
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So far everything is going according to plan, but I noticed a hairline crack in the filler around the hull/keel joint do I ground it all out and will replace it with thickened epoxy. I also decided to restore all of the teak, including the swim ladder and pulpit.</div>
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On the "hard"</div>
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Keel stripped back. 3M 5200 along the seam, red oxide primer on the bare lead. </div>
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Because of the pace I'm moving, most of these photos will be "after". Simply no time to stop, and I'm simply too filthy to reach for my camera. </div>
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UPDATE 10/01/15</div>
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Relaunch!! Two weeks of toil:</div>
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I appealed to Poseiden to welcome Wireless with some Johnny Walker Red (we shared it!). </div>
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So pleased to be back on the water!!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNmGBjXAmN6R7_zkJ0vVw8gfwkpWOBFR3BiyH3KUIIaUw4v3NIrBilOVgGgnaxuk0j81ZXw9AbtIldsbLRFNAyCLqk1RAa4lW4zMr3u4gxSULiPub7WCsOIybhnf6dnLTJDhIJOwMp61vj/s640/blogger-image-154905814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNmGBjXAmN6R7_zkJ0vVw8gfwkpWOBFR3BiyH3KUIIaUw4v3NIrBilOVgGgnaxuk0j81ZXw9AbtIldsbLRFNAyCLqk1RAa4lW4zMr3u4gxSULiPub7WCsOIybhnf6dnLTJDhIJOwMp61vj/s640/blogger-image-154905814.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-8008499134511903552014-12-08T20:33:00.000+13:002014-12-08T17:13:21.404+13:00Deck 2014<div>
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It's been my intention since I bought the boat to re-finish the deck. I am hoping that the summer of 2014 will provide me the opportunity to do this.<br />
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It involves minor repairs to dings and cracks, compounding the deck , and then covering the non-skid areas with Kiwi-Grip.<br />
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This will be preceded by re-bedding the deck hardware and some modifications to the running rigging.<br />
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I'll use this post to track it all over the next few months.<br />
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I am beginning the process by re-finishing the limited amount of teak on the deck.<br />
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Seen here is the restoration of the teak "eyebrow", which involves stripping and sanding, epoxy-stabilising the bungs, and 10 coats of varnish.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first non-thinned coat of varnish. The wood was left rough to help the varnish bind. The first coat was thinned 50% and effectively soaked into the grain. The texture will vanish by the 6th or 7th coat.<br />
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<b>UPDATE 16/12/13</b></div>
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I have applied a 3rd coat (3/10) to the eyebrow, and I have successfully removed both hand rails in preparation for restoration at home.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPcDBwxkh8RnFnFo6vXFrceeR-CtBv7FOrOaRVHFb8WbU_i8myzkVZ-hV615memJAPL9v3rDGH9g0bgpqXdTcU2ZI-oN3p0dTmAMtH1KraDyv-NrXHwVrt8mG6VE833WpgLNtjSWKAOxRp/s1600/grab+rail+before+removal.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPcDBwxkh8RnFnFo6vXFrceeR-CtBv7FOrOaRVHFb8WbU_i8myzkVZ-hV615memJAPL9v3rDGH9g0bgpqXdTcU2ZI-oN3p0dTmAMtH1KraDyv-NrXHwVrt8mG6VE833WpgLNtjSWKAOxRp/s640/grab+rail+before+removal.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">I had previously stripped down the areas of the handrail that I could reach. Note the 3rd coat on the dorade box.</td></tr>
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Removal of the handrails was fairly straightforward, with the most difficult element removing the now-brittle plastic trim plugs from the interior ceiling. I will source and replace all of these.</div>
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It should also be noted that the aft-most screws (1 pair) are located behind the removable panels that sit beneath the winches and (in my case) the rope clutches.</div>
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Once removed, I scraped the remaining sealant off the deck and sanded it clean. I them applied some duct tape to seal the holes until such time as I ready them for installation (I'll track this carefully for you, but I intend on over-drilling and epoxy filling the holes).</div>
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<b>UPDATE 21/12/13</b></div>
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Handrails stripped back completely, sanded to 320 grit and sealed with 2 coats of West System Epoxy. This is to be followed by 4 coats of varnish.</div>
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Back on board, coat #6 is now complete...it's slow going. Note the mistake (?) I made initially in sealing the teak screw bungs with epoxy. The varnish did not bring the rest of the eyebrow to the same shade as those epoxied areas. It doesn't look out of place mind you, but I do hope the epoxy lightens.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaIf2wU_mZ_RwZvr2irVuJS_W3FJGNhZ5mI9iSmXJVNW8KEokS42W-4X8A_IBf4wLzQM2-bB9UjeszG1u7LVRpPJZDx2uK-kXE11D-f1i25cwAP1COwmQ0Xhz1lZknQhND6z7VYzk_RMzo/s1600/6+coats.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaIf2wU_mZ_RwZvr2irVuJS_W3FJGNhZ5mI9iSmXJVNW8KEokS42W-4X8A_IBf4wLzQM2-bB9UjeszG1u7LVRpPJZDx2uK-kXE11D-f1i25cwAP1COwmQ0Xhz1lZknQhND6z7VYzk_RMzo/s640/6+coats.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Update 29/12/13</b><br />
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As the year draws to a close, I am making good headway on the teak deck trim:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKASiLPIYHsq4WrQkxiy0s70nrnLkGkE3d5TDfDqQxFO6kK4YVhycAuqVUDk1N4fHvC9a0Dzqb1HkpftH-nAgGj1FidX6f2Hu01-C1ZfNiMR1rzTq2f7Rrgp8MYDsPSgAY8H0FAh7k7XIn/s1600/complete+grab+rails.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKASiLPIYHsq4WrQkxiy0s70nrnLkGkE3d5TDfDqQxFO6kK4YVhycAuqVUDk1N4fHvC9a0Dzqb1HkpftH-nAgGj1FidX6f2Hu01-C1ZfNiMR1rzTq2f7Rrgp8MYDsPSgAY8H0FAh7k7XIn/s640/complete+grab+rails.jpeg" height="352" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here are the completed grab rails, with 2 coats of epoxy and 5 coats of varnish</td></tr>
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I am installing 4-line deck organisers from Spinlock in the same general location as the existing units. I want to keep the lines elevated above the deck, so the first step is to raise the deck organisers off the deck with spacers. I happen to have some scrap 1-inch thick teak, so here is how I fabricated the spacers.<br />
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1. Cut the spacers roughly to shape, in my case 1 cm wider all around than the Spinlocks<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvmCEc5WiMUW5PyY8iaODb5c4nS7hyphenhyphen0XUcoRxtUWFfe2PN11iLp8dF4BSOKcswjoXToC26ufOHNPhU_xR08_S4KcDGyCKgyxG5aBkmMsupLlH1XXFRJVJNZYtgcjUFAEOfazKFnLap7QFJ/s1600/deck+org+1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvmCEc5WiMUW5PyY8iaODb5c4nS7hyphenhyphen0XUcoRxtUWFfe2PN11iLp8dF4BSOKcswjoXToC26ufOHNPhU_xR08_S4KcDGyCKgyxG5aBkmMsupLlH1XXFRJVJNZYtgcjUFAEOfazKFnLap7QFJ/s640/deck+org+1.jpeg" height="440" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cut out with a jigsaw, shaped with an orbital sander...Norm Abrams would have used a band-saw and a spindle sander...but alas...</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj88OZG4DLYJD1DGGTdGahBdM0kedVv_XYJqckIJ_iVcuSsvhtmXh4x-68deLMUrgKRSuDmVLDBJmUWx4t3mTGruOrY3w7XbW1BzlzPFqF1TBs2FMe6nZB4hVskPIdgMniYbBRxS4hzSeI7/s1600/deck+org+2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj88OZG4DLYJD1DGGTdGahBdM0kedVv_XYJqckIJ_iVcuSsvhtmXh4x-68deLMUrgKRSuDmVLDBJmUWx4t3mTGruOrY3w7XbW1BzlzPFqF1TBs2FMe6nZB4hVskPIdgMniYbBRxS4hzSeI7/s640/deck+org+2.jpeg" height="408" width="640" /></a></div>
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2. Because the cabin top is curved (in many ways) I used dividers to transfer the curve to the underside of the spacer. I used a wood rasp and LOTS of elbow grease to remove the right amount of material in the right spot. Then I eased the top with a round-over router bit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq1P-k2PhAyHsq1-LrprG69a8BEwt1UFOMb6zMhYr6oISK9ccAmOTfmZgB1mmGPvGlglSfzutYvso9Ot6lR1txK3OXyLMnDSvwkucfnEf0fTJ4ei2Kc0bj417a6cUw9aPDbpMhTLJP3QrF/s1600/deck+org+3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq1P-k2PhAyHsq1-LrprG69a8BEwt1UFOMb6zMhYr6oISK9ccAmOTfmZgB1mmGPvGlglSfzutYvso9Ot6lR1txK3OXyLMnDSvwkucfnEf0fTJ4ei2Kc0bj417a6cUw9aPDbpMhTLJP3QrF/s640/deck+org+3.jpeg" height="214" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the formed underside, which conforms to the cabin top. The bottom looks routed as well in this photo, but it isn't.</td></tr>
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<b>UPDATE 5/1/14</b></div>
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Happy New Year to everyone!</div>
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I have completed the preparation of the teak blocks that will reside under the deck organisers and raise the lines a full 1" off the deck. The finish is two coats of West System epoxy and 4 coats of Goldspar varnish. Because the spacer blocks will be through-bolted into the deck, but the organisers themselves only screwed (securely) to the blocks, it will be possible to remove the organisers and re-finish the blocks in years to come without much drama. Without this concept I would paint the blocks, as re-varnishing would be a nightmare.</div>
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3/3/14 - I have elected to paint these teak spacers with white epoxy enamel. This is to keep maintenance to a minimum. </div>
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<b>UPDATE 10/1/14</b></div>
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I have completed the refinishing of the 7 portlights. 3 coats of a special metal paint, lightly sanding between each coat, and tremendous attention paid to thinning, given the heat I was working in at the time.</div>
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The next task relates to the deck gelcoat. You all may recall that I was planning to paint both the gelcoat (Interlux Perfection) and the non-skid (KiwiGrip).</div>
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I have now decided that the smooth gelcoat has plenty of life left, its just buried under a lot of chaulky and dull UV damage.</div>
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I am going to hit the entire smooth part of the deck with my power buffers (I have two, a regular rotary buffer and a dual-action buffer) and some 3M compound....as always...watch this space.</div>
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<b>BEFORE</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCUldq0JxhZccN5uUdEqMHL_sGzLFwn7UhfP72ftsOcRBH4xHiMqcJ8S2XSphymDpdcM5uAhI0ZNetQnrtRKSh1bG5qwP3l22HNmtCRb_lCwLea_oVjMGWdGkzGkWsaApavqF7_AghwyGZ/s1600/cockpit+before+10-01-2014+6-59-34+p.m..JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCUldq0JxhZccN5uUdEqMHL_sGzLFwn7UhfP72ftsOcRBH4xHiMqcJ8S2XSphymDpdcM5uAhI0ZNetQnrtRKSh1bG5qwP3l22HNmtCRb_lCwLea_oVjMGWdGkzGkWsaApavqF7_AghwyGZ/s1600/cockpit+before+10-01-2014+6-59-34+p.m..JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>UPDATE 14/01/14</b></div>
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As I scour the planet in search of the elusive hangar bolt/lag screws for the hand rail re-installation, I've moved on to other projects on "the list". I have had success using my dual action polisher with a compounding foam pad and 3M heavy oxidation restorer/wax. This product is a one-step system that compounds and polishes, but I will likely follow up with additional waxing.</div>
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<b>Update 27/1/14</b></div>
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Completed compounding and waxing of the cockpit and cabin top sides. </div>
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The remaining work is all slow, hand work. </div>
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Polishing continues around the deck and toe-rails, using a 3" pad for the DA polisher. </div>
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UPDATE 9/2/14</div>
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Over-drilling, routing and epoxy-filling the screw holes continues. </div>
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Update 15/2/14</div>
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I've finished with the smooth deck surfaces, with 3 coats of paste wax on all surfaces. Here are some photos. The bulwarks were the hardest part, polishing and and waxing behind all of those stanchions.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>NEW PHOTOS!!!</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEJr_-NIGZnKXfo2zO7UPXzHju1Ht1bSZ7mt9ZREVnMjojBACNj7qwQn8HUBfjCQed1jyQvg40FjV66KQ1C4R3cVxqo3T7s7nxJj8C_lHxq4D8dL2KIJ42t8Ztt3bsjyKLKIpDA-wPmstO/s1600/Polished+bulwarks+2+18-02-2014+6-51-22+p.m..JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEJr_-NIGZnKXfo2zO7UPXzHju1Ht1bSZ7mt9ZREVnMjojBACNj7qwQn8HUBfjCQed1jyQvg40FjV66KQ1C4R3cVxqo3T7s7nxJj8C_lHxq4D8dL2KIJ42t8Ztt3bsjyKLKIpDA-wPmstO/s1600/Polished+bulwarks+2+18-02-2014+6-51-22+p.m..JPG" height="524" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwC75dYMFPtr9LFRsfl02CqmsDV-Bjve9x8BTrdLNaNiSvcGX2gWjavpfEpyDfmw5Io51_DPULl0Wxr-oqvDnLorjiMIUII5Wt9vi_MnTzGLGQelWOCH4TSPKCWqokjdeDTKR4VccSrkra/s1600/polished+bulwarks+3+18-02-2014+6-51-00+p.m..JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwC75dYMFPtr9LFRsfl02CqmsDV-Bjve9x8BTrdLNaNiSvcGX2gWjavpfEpyDfmw5Io51_DPULl0Wxr-oqvDnLorjiMIUII5Wt9vi_MnTzGLGQelWOCH4TSPKCWqokjdeDTKR4VccSrkra/s1600/polished+bulwarks+3+18-02-2014+6-51-00+p.m..JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Although a bit under-exposed, I included this photo because is shows Mount Maunganui in the background, a dormant volcano.</td></tr>
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<b>UPDATE 18/2/14</b></div>
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I want to expand a bit on the polishing process. I use the following Dual-Action (Random Orbital) polisher from Kestral. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_r8hoMbQrnflM5qdHqev0qAXEKc6X-ibZerKOiqRcPPjjvcPLBt01gSpmM1Ux5Fn6-YxNdlyV3Uj1XVVvOvrLpoUWz4WXhuFhPrDL_N9O5cklsjL-EtSr736eCkZQOQ7fCPJbxMUQR80g/s1600/kestrel-das-6-dual-action-polisher-161-p.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" closure_lm_724925="null" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_r8hoMbQrnflM5qdHqev0qAXEKc6X-ibZerKOiqRcPPjjvcPLBt01gSpmM1Ux5Fn6-YxNdlyV3Uj1XVVvOvrLpoUWz4WXhuFhPrDL_N9O5cklsjL-EtSr736eCkZQOQ7fCPJbxMUQR80g/s1600/kestrel-das-6-dual-action-polisher-161-p.jpg" dta="true" height="456" width="640" /></a></div>
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It is as small as a mini-angle grinder and can easily be used with one hand. I have 5" and 3" backing pads and foam pads in various grades from Lake Country.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI-eE1EmzXaYwduPt38Zt1yAfqHiVmh1pSsOLVscuRDziPyTedyjOJba7N2T1rMsA9ARBIZ8q5GoLmHK7zmvxiiBuiiMuwC5BKEex4r_azNa3R8EO3nyFoGtRTsUIBwmDjU9Za860IqUNG/s1600/autopia_2267_57930781.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" closure_lm_724925="null" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI-eE1EmzXaYwduPt38Zt1yAfqHiVmh1pSsOLVscuRDziPyTedyjOJba7N2T1rMsA9ARBIZ8q5GoLmHK7zmvxiiBuiiMuwC5BKEex4r_azNa3R8EO3nyFoGtRTsUIBwmDjU9Za860IqUNG/s1600/autopia_2267_57930781.jpg" dta="true" height="124" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once you have the polisher and the pads, you need to decide the following:<br />
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"How badly oxidized is my finish?"<br />
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If the surface has no reflectivity, and looks like a coat of flat white paint, it's pretty bad. If white powder comes off on your fingertips it is VERY bad.<br />
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This is the sun destroying the top layer of your gelocat, and you must remove it. Wet-sanding even with 4000grit paper should be reserved for a terribly-weathered and scratched surface.<br />
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In most cases, a proper fibreglass rubbing compound will give you the shine you want. Many companies, such as 3M, make a "One-Step" polish/wax, but I can tell you that this is ONLY for mildly dull finishes. These "combo" polishes do not cut as aggresively as a true rubbing compound, and will never give you the results I've had here. I used the 3M One-Step product but changed when I realized that it wasn't producing a good result.<br />
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This is the brand I have used, made by Septone (Australian?):<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1mjLolMEwnm6bNewUr34xdgs3PPCu4eW3ZSiHBccvRSZCUnq8oywQCDCM0ru2v0LmA2LI6eK6DJmZv-n-L4QwETuu0MYPUTOE_EE7N_XdZ3n_vFO4LveOXq_uU6hDCRaRwWqdG9X8mRSd/s1600/MPFB500-fibreglass-buffing-compound-500ml.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" closure_lm_724925="null" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1mjLolMEwnm6bNewUr34xdgs3PPCu4eW3ZSiHBccvRSZCUnq8oywQCDCM0ru2v0LmA2LI6eK6DJmZv-n-L4QwETuu0MYPUTOE_EE7N_XdZ3n_vFO4LveOXq_uU6hDCRaRwWqdG9X8mRSd/s1600/MPFB500-fibreglass-buffing-compound-500ml.jpg" dta="true" height="600" width="640" /></a></div>
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I used a Yellow Lake Country compounding foam pad for the compound, then a black pad for the wax. In some areas I used an automotive swirl remover to get some additional gloss For this step I used an orange pad.<br />
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You clean the pads regularly (every 10-15minutes) by turning them upside down and touching them lightly with a stiff brush while they spin. Make sure you are downwind, this produces a lot of dust.<br />
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Dual action polishers are not like rotary polishers, they don't try to break your wrist. You can easliy control them. There are hundreds of videos and articles about how to polish boats on the Internet, so I won't go into it here, but you must understand that compound is liquid sandpaper. You work it around in an established overlapping pattern until the grit breaks down. As you make your last few passes you ease up on the pressure you apply, letting the weight of the machine do all the work. In fact, you never really press down on the machine, just enough to keep the pad flat on the surface.<br />
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A tip...take the handle off the machine, it makes it harder to get close to the deck and to the various fittings. I ran the machine between speed #3 and #4 all the time, this kept the pad cool and kept the polish from cooking into the foam.<br />
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Foam pads can be washed with dish detergent and really hot water. I washed mine at the end of every day. Do not let the surface of the foam pad load up with polish, use your brush a lot (I bought a stiff dishwashing brush with a long handle).<br />
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<b>UPDATE 25/2/14</b><br />
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I am at the point of installing my rope clutch upgrade. I am increasing the number of clutches from 4 to 8, with 10mm unit on the outside port and starboard, and 8mm units inside for the reefing lines.<br />
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The forward bolts are difficult to reach as they do not fall over the removable ceiling panels, but they are far from impossible.<br />
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Unlike the 4 existing clutches, I am not relying solely on washers, instead I am constructing backing plates from epoxy-coated marine plywood.<br />
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Here are a couple of photos from the work in progress.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX-Dq0C8pZXQfY1C1o-iWc6IV0R2G7Qx-gNW10h_t-EkjQS_MBJsV1nrZrt3QDsMlQkbABEFsJw7zYrRc1YKxqnahvMUvImp7E-L5qrn9sE4l7tKIIIPxseRTNTKgBNRhLBiGyFtZdURR8/s1600/clutch+backing+plate.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX-Dq0C8pZXQfY1C1o-iWc6IV0R2G7Qx-gNW10h_t-EkjQS_MBJsV1nrZrt3QDsMlQkbABEFsJw7zYrRc1YKxqnahvMUvImp7E-L5qrn9sE4l7tKIIIPxseRTNTKgBNRhLBiGyFtZdURR8/s1600/clutch+backing+plate.JPG" height="590" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsHHzBl__TQV5hV2ivZIRbdnAfRRu6W_4kdB3aUjpUTw0JX062W6qdaXXFm_dA0CNgDMMUlvPAfyqnSdbjHHqSqDse75W01JNWOSUc0QWAtNXqAncMCh3L3Fqn7gxEvJZ16iZUsW4MqbLG/s1600/clutches.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsHHzBl__TQV5hV2ivZIRbdnAfRRu6W_4kdB3aUjpUTw0JX062W6qdaXXFm_dA0CNgDMMUlvPAfyqnSdbjHHqSqDse75W01JNWOSUc0QWAtNXqAncMCh3L3Fqn7gxEvJZ16iZUsW4MqbLG/s1600/clutches.JPG" height="338" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L-R: Spare Halyard, Halyard, Tack Reef 1, Tack Reef 2, Clew Reef1, Clew Reef 2, Choker, Topping Lift</td></tr>
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<b>
Update 10/3/14</b></div>
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I've installed the 4 rope clutches using meticulous installation practice, including over drilling and epoxy filling, and using butyl tape to seal them. </div>
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Here are some photos:</div>
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A couple pics of the completed units, all that remains is to replace the reefing lines and install my new deck organisers. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheBlFWnS-BSOnr24a9lDXdaQvUXgLCaqQ7FVza4ePEfClYCpnnNqiVIVdXzIDjhYu0596QV622BA5ivbqftW4oP5wB42Ji3WNpsi9Ta-TQo-UvqiKGqfWefXc0XwfOjXI6gg-EeHihEuhe/s640/blogger-image--544042237.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheBlFWnS-BSOnr24a9lDXdaQvUXgLCaqQ7FVza4ePEfClYCpnnNqiVIVdXzIDjhYu0596QV622BA5ivbqftW4oP5wB42Ji3WNpsi9Ta-TQo-UvqiKGqfWefXc0XwfOjXI6gg-EeHihEuhe/s640/blogger-image--544042237.jpg" /></a></div>
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Butyl tape is very time consuming, but it's a proven alternative to caulking. Remember to wrap the screw head inside the clutch as well. </div>
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I worked this until the voids were all filled. On the first round of tightening, I got considerable oozing out the sides, so the initial thickness is adequate. </div>
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Also, remember to chamfer the drilled hole to create an o-ring effect. </div>
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So...how do you get a washer and a nut on the forward machine screws? The ones that are NOT in the ceiling cut-out? They can only just be reached with your fingers. </div>
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Here's how:</div>
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1. Put a tiny bit of butyl tape on the underside of the fender washer, this will hold it in place on the underside of the deck. </div>
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2. Place a small bit of tape on the backside of a close spanner, as seen here:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid7nA73xQMLbMMicouRBCpDWzAN9XLd1xSKVK5m2HnOLqWAuu2nKepgOOZaR9yubmp5JLgAV1-xq8ptoQfpm9EsvMcNskHyyWe_kMLLAHl-TS-wF9Rx1r9DSt2W8vzRH97fCBAGUc1CfHf/s640/blogger-image-1015044074.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid7nA73xQMLbMMicouRBCpDWzAN9XLd1xSKVK5m2HnOLqWAuu2nKepgOOZaR9yubmp5JLgAV1-xq8ptoQfpm9EsvMcNskHyyWe_kMLLAHl-TS-wF9Rx1r9DSt2W8vzRH97fCBAGUc1CfHf/s640/blogger-image-1015044074.jpg" /></a></div>
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Place the nut in the pocket of the spanner, carefully hold it square under the screw, and turn the screw slowly from the top perhaps 3 times until the thread catches. I realize turning the screw isn't ideal, but this is the only way, these screws were 6 inches past the forward extent of the ceiling opening.<br />
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I am now simultaneously overhauling the winches and preparing to install the travellers. </div>
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<b>Update 10/4/14</b></div>
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Vas is das?</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> 4 1-inch for the new deck organizers, 8 7/8 inch for the old holes.</td></tr>
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It is a collection of headliner plugs painted to match the interior. Now <b>that's</b> attention to detail. </div>
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<b>UPDATE 8/12/14</b></div>
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<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Attaching grab rails on my own vexed me until I came up with the following method:<br /><br />1. Prepare the holes (over-drill-epoxy).<br />2. Tape over the holes in the ceiling liner to catch the majority of the dust<br />3. Use a drill guide to drill perpendicular to the deck<br />4. Drill and then counter-sink by using a countersink in reverse. This avoids tearing the gelcoat.<br />5. Install one screw at each station all the way up, so they protrude about 30mm<br />6. Countersink the holes in the grab rail **critical! This allows the screw to find the hole<br />7. Apply butyl tape or compound to the bottom of each station. Butyl tape is much cleaner, and I now use it for everything<br />8. Carefully position the rail on the sharp screw heads and push down a wee bit, this and the countersink hold it in place If you pick just the right sized drill bit the screws will be held firmly in the deck<br />9. Starting in the middle, tighten each screw in batches of 6 turns, going from one to the next<br />10. When firmly set, install all the remaining screws<br /><br />You're done, and you owe nobody any favours.<br /></span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-29643008321515827852014-11-08T14:14:00.001+13:002014-11-08T14:17:06.855+13:00New skills and tools earning their keep.Three weeks ago we had 52knots tear through the marina. The only damage I sustained was the loss of the cover from the Westerbeke Admirals engine panel. This cover was nothing more than a rectangular section of plastic bucket, sprung into the opening of the panel. It did work, keeping the sun from fading the panel.<br />
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With its disappearance I was forced to develop a long term solution. </div>
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With my 'new' industrial sewing machine I was able to easily create a Sunbrella cover, double-stitched with 6 layers of fabric at the corners (don't try this with a domestic machine). </div>
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I applied stainless steel snaps (riveted) and fitted it to the cockpit over the panel. I am well-pleased with the result. </div>
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I made sure to use sealant on the studs screwed into the fibreglass, and counter-sunk the holes to avoid future cracking.<br />
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It took about 6 hours from start to finish, a lot of which was spent fiddling with the riveted snaps. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-17713022029697746332014-11-01T19:11:00.000+13:002014-11-01T17:46:00.484+13:00LED lighting upgradeMy yacht came with two fluorescent light bars installed over the galley. These were not original, the manufacture date was 2006.<br />
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They both started to play up a few months ago, so I have been searching for alternatives. </div>
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I found two 60 LED light bars with a 4.8w rating and some 351 lumens (cool white). They installation was straightforward, and the results remarkable. The output is visually double that of the fluorescent units.<br />
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To compare:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Dual-tube fluorescent units - 16watt/12volt = <b>1.33amp</b></li>
<li>30LED units - 4.8watt/12volt = <b>0.4 amp</b></li>
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The fluorescent units use 3.5 times the amount (amp) of energy that the new LED's use, for what appears to be less than half the visible output. The LED units produce NO heat at all.<br />
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I got two of them for $100, they are very well-made. I bought them online in NZ from Dualcom Technology, and they come with a 2 year warranty.</div>
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Highly recommended upgrade. </div>
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UPDATE 1/11/14</div>
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I have continued the theme of ridding the boat of incandescent, fluorescent and halogen lighting by replacing my ancient chart table overhead light. It was white/red, but you can see the red bulb was just dipped in red paint. It was old and antiquated. </div>
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I replaced the fixture with a white/red LED unit, drawing well under one half of an amp, or 1/10th of the previous unit. </div>
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I am very pleased with the outcome. The new unit was on sale for $40NZD.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-35144745720049668832014-08-13T10:33:00.002+12:002021-08-02T12:30:54.141+12:00Needle and ThreadI'm facing a number of sewing projects in the next few weeks, ranging from simple covers for my refinished grab rails (Sunbrella) to re-stitching my dodger/ replacing the clears.<br />
While we own a cheap Chinese sewing machine, I wanted something with more "guts".<br />
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I researched older sewing machines made entirely of metal, with enough punch to see multiple layers of Sunbrella. I kept coming across referenced to the "greatest sewing machine ever made", the Singer 401.<br />
This machine retailed in 1959 for the equivalent of $2600 USD, so it was something to be coveted and then treasured.<br />
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Well, 55 years later our society has become disposable and these machines can be found for a song. I found one at an online auction for $55 NZD ($45USD).<br />
It is in mint condition with all the factory bits.<br />
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I can't wait to start sewing.<br />
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Update 10/1/14</div>
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As with everything I own, the machine was torn down into it's primary components, cleaned and polished, including a kerosene soak and a complete lubrication, and a complete polish and wax of the enamel surface. I am now ready to make covers for everything! :)</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMYNNWniHWLm9HCtazQShSzebxrk1KyGwRWcaboWXO6PYkDB993xLZxe-5HxEwNRKohvzdizaHtvULmTnogplasobmZZAaZZRfoLrsCdQ5KyL8jVjBdKtw14UwgHCzKHpTlxUh6yp1T6ut/s1600/machine+ready+to+go.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="552" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMYNNWniHWLm9HCtazQShSzebxrk1KyGwRWcaboWXO6PYkDB993xLZxe-5HxEwNRKohvzdizaHtvULmTnogplasobmZZAaZZRfoLrsCdQ5KyL8jVjBdKtw14UwgHCzKHpTlxUh6yp1T6ut/s1600/machine+ready+to+go.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My 1959/1960 Singer 401G sewing machine, renowned for being one of the best sewing machines ever built. I am using an enormous jeans/canvas needle. </td></tr>
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Necessity (and poverty) is the mother of invention. Why spend $20 for a plastic thread cone holder with a coat-hangar protruding from it? I have some dowel kicking around, and a bit of epoxy. You must have something like this when you use the giant cones of UV-treated thread.</div>
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UPDATE 23/1/14</div>
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Well, as wonderful a machine this is (and it is both wonderful to use and look at), it is simply not up to the challenge of stitching multiple layers (greater than 3) of Sunbrella. With webbing and more Sunbrella in the future, I'm afraid I must look for another machine, something semi or fully commercial. </div>
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I will certainly keep the Singer, as it will very handy for more conventional activities. </div>
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One of the models I'm now investigating is the Sailrite Ultrafeed, a unit that I lusted after years ago, and one that by all reports has been tremendously improved in the new version. An email inquiry to Sailrite was responded to within minutes by the President of the company...wow!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEw1in3cGQu6NM6wRT179OzEuE2Hln8EHVwMy3Sf6qFiwgZqlc1AaHnWW-8iX3YlSH7QhxvGD1GjaswFMxqkVI0wcgNmUmwgLPmKLYxuwlSxO34eYk975vc82haImejC1-TzqHZLq3oFxz/s1600/ultrafeed-sewing-machine.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" closure_lm_817771="null" cua="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEw1in3cGQu6NM6wRT179OzEuE2Hln8EHVwMy3Sf6qFiwgZqlc1AaHnWW-8iX3YlSH7QhxvGD1GjaswFMxqkVI0wcgNmUmwgLPmKLYxuwlSxO34eYk975vc82haImejC1-TzqHZLq3oFxz/s1600/ultrafeed-sewing-machine.jpg" /></a></div>
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<b>UPDATE 22/2/14</b></div>
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The projects start to roll out while I continue to shop for a heavy duty machine. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAIZs7DTq4JkEEU0OeK-jYPSnUmpDvfVJiow-MFAEHWIZxmIbJoyJ2FEw4VOF_8cpXaJA2jePp07NW5LsuqGmCfVX9lusz88XQXPxedtw6JNMaKVP6DwyawEqP70-W53Wd2VahV2iu5x5q/s640/blogger-image--69946179.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAIZs7DTq4JkEEU0OeK-jYPSnUmpDvfVJiow-MFAEHWIZxmIbJoyJ2FEw4VOF_8cpXaJA2jePp07NW5LsuqGmCfVX9lusz88XQXPxedtw6JNMaKVP6DwyawEqP70-W53Wd2VahV2iu5x5q/s640/blogger-image--69946179.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRWnYh_BSze7w3UbE9xJ2YR2Hs_cxLIAItruLc-OAWPlGU8J_00ZKbqStjXH3wTIOZ3WNLa4mfA0ZokG7_xo6c39JxAOAFx_1AqtF6mc_MfiYj05nsVQl8eSY2gTiVcY07RABio1pll3QX/s640/blogger-image--2033280417.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRWnYh_BSze7w3UbE9xJ2YR2Hs_cxLIAItruLc-OAWPlGU8J_00ZKbqStjXH3wTIOZ3WNLa4mfA0ZokG7_xo6c39JxAOAFx_1AqtF6mc_MfiYj05nsVQl8eSY2gTiVcY07RABio1pll3QX/s640/blogger-image--2033280417.jpg" /></a></div>
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<strong>UPDATE 9/4/14</strong><br />
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Well, after an exhaustive (and global) 3-month search for a sewing machine that was capable of sewing heavy-weight marine materials, I stumbled across a machine at a local auction. It is a Durkopp Adler 67, an older (30 years?) machine, but it is the Mercedes Benz of sewing machines. They sell used anywhere from $1500-$3000, but I bought this one for $70....it's not much to look at, but with some restoration it will be perfect for the job.<br />
I pick it up this weekend, but here is a "sistership" photo:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt5HIjkYHic0lQxu_oeUlmgXE5-kmtLGF8wNCZlze0r1NGeZacpfLejcc7LTBFnz889H2ZKTuOiY8Z15fqxMEPESWhZV1ipCaetLfpwOVCT6NnlH_QuV7E6olHWR-lx2OBqkapaCqwZ3C6/s1600/9583.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_lm_619841="null" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt5HIjkYHic0lQxu_oeUlmgXE5-kmtLGF8wNCZlze0r1NGeZacpfLejcc7LTBFnz889H2ZKTuOiY8Z15fqxMEPESWhZV1ipCaetLfpwOVCT6NnlH_QuV7E6olHWR-lx2OBqkapaCqwZ3C6/s1600/9583.jpg" yta="true" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a 167-73AE, mine is an older 067 model, identical but for the size of the bobbin.</td></tr>
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Rumour has it these machines will sew through 1/4" plywood.<br />
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<b>UPDATE 15/4/14:</b><br />
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My machine is now in the garage, and of course...it is a project in itself. It is a true barn find, with a lot of cleaning ahead of me. Consider these to be the "before" photos:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2NdIHuAQNKYJFLBaEoD0oE3vV7hWHayjZPiiJZgmhhtRc4w8lk7c_r1743DWSEydnuHABwHNgyisYFVooFJpBEztKVhvLwhYnbcVXNLL4Qem68TJZP7ocAZqFzLT428qj4zshlxqJzXte/s1600/photo+5.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_lm_325968="null" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2NdIHuAQNKYJFLBaEoD0oE3vV7hWHayjZPiiJZgmhhtRc4w8lk7c_r1743DWSEydnuHABwHNgyisYFVooFJpBEztKVhvLwhYnbcVXNLL4Qem68TJZP7ocAZqFzLT428qj4zshlxqJzXte/s1600/photo+5.JPG" uta="true" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An Adler 67AE-72E36, built perhaps 50 years ago. It's cosmetically showing it's age, but it's built of the best German steel, and is un-rivalled in the world of industrial sewing machines.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3zAXr8jJwcKQtaCA6ITWn9UI8igCgPhcJ2Ejs0WR3LQwMm8pnPt20yRy57tkE3JripTv6jiGjwVQB84cfBHljxlRUtg3tecHC4ivk0VsGozRZSP-OsnJ1_FIqtY61r6ikR9XQNvc0ikx1/s1600/photo+1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" closure_lm_325968="null" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3zAXr8jJwcKQtaCA6ITWn9UI8igCgPhcJ2Ejs0WR3LQwMm8pnPt20yRy57tkE3JripTv6jiGjwVQB84cfBHljxlRUtg3tecHC4ivk0VsGozRZSP-OsnJ1_FIqtY61r6ikR9XQNvc0ikx1/s1600/photo+1.JPG" uta="true" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJBQuuV7Cl2dO_Cke0g0hVN0w6cc9GYisWlzmkoAgLAGxMiWbT0eGTj4H6EdM98xVhsrpLzKBQqmUyAcasRbUG-4pVp44m6sU9YtTMGHTmTmBaA5xsiQ4RMLPj248b-VXsSKowDlM2SBCc/s1600/photo+3.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_lm_325968="null" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJBQuuV7Cl2dO_Cke0g0hVN0w6cc9GYisWlzmkoAgLAGxMiWbT0eGTj4H6EdM98xVhsrpLzKBQqmUyAcasRbUG-4pVp44m6sU9YtTMGHTmTmBaA5xsiQ4RMLPj248b-VXsSKowDlM2SBCc/s1600/photo+3.JPG" uta="true" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hey! Another varnishing job....great...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh194IbohN8u29PxHlojxGIBovfebDThG2aU3RY8r4Luu8KA-KxHyCJfRBi9pId6zULPEXJDWfBMe4gC3zgCCXbY4r932RXbtg_f0nUK4Lhaz2E8j5ciunwBMcQ5faaV7mB40j4lxFN5B1k/s1600/machine+bobbin.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_lm_325968="null" height="530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh194IbohN8u29PxHlojxGIBovfebDThG2aU3RY8r4Luu8KA-KxHyCJfRBi9pId6zULPEXJDWfBMe4gC3zgCCXbY4r932RXbtg_f0nUK4Lhaz2E8j5ciunwBMcQ5faaV7mB40j4lxFN5B1k/s1600/machine+bobbin.JPG" uta="true" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golly...this is going to need a good cleaning.</td></tr>
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<b>Update 19/4/14</b><br />
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I've got the machine clean, just polishing and lubricating. It's remarkable the difference turning it by hand from filthy, to clean and oiled. This is a BEAST of a machine, I estimate 35kg. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEouFXzPSGitQ0VK5OdifyXqSUeYtKcYqLLdJbnp-GyrTNCDj1LwLa-ppoauEMDIC9fkjJ5nhBJeScXz5RCklrzpMR74VCaZ7lF7hWrbdT2J08gWVHT1JXalw3yWAhWpqIc7JDWuSr4r6W/s640/blogger-image--1632126345.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEouFXzPSGitQ0VK5OdifyXqSUeYtKcYqLLdJbnp-GyrTNCDj1LwLa-ppoauEMDIC9fkjJ5nhBJeScXz5RCklrzpMR74VCaZ7lF7hWrbdT2J08gWVHT1JXalw3yWAhWpqIc7JDWuSr4r6W/s640/blogger-image--1632126345.jpg" /></a></div>
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<b>Update 20/4/14</b> - I have the machine back together, here is what I achieved in 1 week:</div>
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1. Refinished the table top with 5 coats of varnish ( the stains and scars I left for character)</div>
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2. Refinished the table frame with 3 coats of white epoxy enamel. </div>
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3. Cleaned and lubricated the machine, including the bobbin winder. </div>
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4. Removed the Quick clutch motor and installed a Powermax AH27 servo motor, which is 1/3 the size and 1/10 the weight. I can see at 60 stitches/min with full control (incredible). </div>
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<b>UPDATE 11/4/14</b></div>
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SEWING...FINALLY</div>
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<a href="http://youtu.be/I6E2iF5r1dA">http://youtu.be/I6E2iF5r1dA</a><br />
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<b>Update 16/5/14</b></div>
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Fender covers!</div>
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UPDATE 13/8/14</b></div>
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It has been a long time coming, but the dodger has been re-stitched and the clear panels replaced. This has been on "the list" for 2 years. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj0ZZKvogUPuBmkhPYLNML239TAqB2HHMgfnKUfkl8vs7x7PnC8A-4qffiL9DiWGoBM9SqlUD4s_jS2dOtqwdCKTWnx0wieSxKyxaKIMoJEdqyhVeq1kEq2KndyQqxuC8txjx6h27p9jhV/s640/blogger-image--1842589093.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj0ZZKvogUPuBmkhPYLNML239TAqB2HHMgfnKUfkl8vs7x7PnC8A-4qffiL9DiWGoBM9SqlUD4s_jS2dOtqwdCKTWnx0wieSxKyxaKIMoJEdqyhVeq1kEq2KndyQqxuC8txjx6h27p9jhV/s640/blogger-image--1842589093.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can see the re-done dodger and the fender covers in this photo.</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-7898778046216556212014-04-27T21:58:00.000+12:002014-04-26T18:58:34.350+12:00Fuel systemI have decided to develop a " day-tank", which is a 20l tank that I will use to get out of the marina and back, allowing me not to carry around 110l of fuel in the main tank.<br />
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Step 1 is to build a secure box for the day tank. Following will be the creation of a fuel polishing system. </div>
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Here is the day tank under construction, upside down. It will be installed forward of the vertical bulkhead between the rudder stock and the engine. I'll take photos. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPHT5zbICtHw_cjMBIVJaCJHuhBU4VTWzcz_HYmXChtA3BS03zioHhSXsC_mtqglw5403yzRHlZQ35sWuYhDJGSaJes861ZjeZIJRDXnreoBNa_RU3ugmK-HTl5G3n_zgPPswWt68Rdeqn/s640/blogger-image--1152310061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPHT5zbICtHw_cjMBIVJaCJHuhBU4VTWzcz_HYmXChtA3BS03zioHhSXsC_mtqglw5403yzRHlZQ35sWuYhDJGSaJes861ZjeZIJRDXnreoBNa_RU3ugmK-HTl5G3n_zgPPswWt68Rdeqn/s640/blogger-image--1152310061.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A marine plywood box, secured at the back to the bulkhead, and supported on a piece of timber on the bottom. Screwed and epoxied in place.</td></tr>
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Update 14/4/14<br />
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Here is the schematic for the proposed fuel system.<br />
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<b>Update 18/4/14</b></div>
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The fuel system is coming together. Here is the fuel tank containment unit, almost ready to fibreglass into place. Another photo with the tank shown. </div>
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And here is the basic layout if the fuel control centre. Three 3-way valves controlling:</div>
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1. What tank feeds the engine</div>
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2. Directs the main tank to the fuel polisher</div>
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3. Controls the fuel return destination</div>
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This system will be mounted on a pre-fabricated panel, with the polishing filter and pump, then fixed to the bulkhead adjacent the main engine Racor filter<br />
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Missing is the 12v lift pump (100l/min) which I have yet to source. The laminated drawings show the position of each lever at the required outcome.</div>
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Update 25/4/14</div>
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I'm edging toward the completion of the fuel distribution centre and day-tank. The tank container is now glasses in place with several layers of cloth and epoxy. </div>
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I have also fixed the various brass fittings on the 3 way valves with pipe-loc fluid. I had to fabricate spacers out of thick walled aluminium tubing. Use a rotary pipe cutter for this and you'll get perfectly square cuts. </div>
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I needed a rubber gasket to isolate the filter housing, I knew there was a reason to keep that old pick-up floor mat. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-44472492142076279492014-03-11T09:23:00.000+13:002016-11-04T09:23:59.738+13:00Rebuilding self-tailing winchesI've torn down all the winches and serviced them, replacing the pawls and springs from a Barient parts supplier in Australia: <a href="http://www.arco-winches.com/products/spares">Australian Yacht Winch Company</a><br />
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Barient winches are no longer sold, serviced, nor are parts readily available, so this supplier is a goldmine. I bought several spare pawls and springs.<br />
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The Nonsuch owner's manual details the servicing of the winches, but essentially you must work slowly and carefully, do not put grease on the pawls, and do NOT try to do the work on the boat...lots of little parts can go missing.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-29391707010894279172014-02-17T21:26:00.000+13:002014-02-21T20:33:44.064+13:00Mounting the bilge pumpOn the advice of a very knowledgeable fellow Nonsuch owner, I have decided to mount the bilge pump securely by first securing a platform of marine plywood in epoxy. Here it is set in a bed of thickened epoxy. I will cover everything with flow-coat to match the bilge.<br>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSWjN4IqbzPgZeAAkguRj0XqpfgJQXiLwLWJ6KVh-cRqW7XJZOuUs_gDAPfQjhyphenhyphenHUVGV3eHZo207REkzNUs5q4YcFVuTUwY8CE7XRvQzhNggUJp240wIXfnFWLc2Ii8PmdCJHm2sardxxC/s1600/bilge+pump+mount+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSWjN4IqbzPgZeAAkguRj0XqpfgJQXiLwLWJ6KVh-cRqW7XJZOuUs_gDAPfQjhyphenhyphenHUVGV3eHZo207REkzNUs5q4YcFVuTUwY8CE7XRvQzhNggUJp240wIXfnFWLc2Ii8PmdCJHm2sardxxC/s1600/bilge+pump+mount+1.JPG" height="626" width="640"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPP-ZL3KIiwQXejzDat4OoG4loZVW0qD_FByBfYALbCnPrGTpK9TCJIXmQWNyAnktszgk2Ws57AYJrqT-kmFZemO7XsigvXJnGl2tMJftAjTQmUGpYplfuNthSf7pHzAGDyTTDjLIvXB13/s640/blogger-image--1560140578.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPP-ZL3KIiwQXejzDat4OoG4loZVW0qD_FByBfYALbCnPrGTpK9TCJIXmQWNyAnktszgk2Ws57AYJrqT-kmFZemO7XsigvXJnGl2tMJftAjTQmUGpYplfuNthSf7pHzAGDyTTDjLIvXB13/s640/blogger-image--1560140578.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Two coats of polyester flow-coat to give us a clean finish. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><br></div>
<br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7321532331651061200.post-38762395767257568992013-12-17T22:03:00.000+13:002014-02-21T20:40:08.771+13:00Cockpit table restoration<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The teak table that hinges upward from my Edson steering pedestal is made of solid teak. Over the years it has had successive coats of varnish, but no sanding/refinishing <br>
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As a result, the finish is very thick, but uneven. The varnish has become quite orange.<br>
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Here is a photo of the table removed from the boat, sitting on my kitchen bench:<br>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZxH4I090iVscasYw8nrbU_gOWgEneY0f8-GxJyCfF0h_PVZWKB3FIQikHp2EVDq95MAH4urR8gnik0puNxnXLy6feTQPjGc0k-juY4l_tiq7u5-aY5x1ifFY4RJob4T4Gm-qDlFxnJpFJ/s1600/cockpit+table+before.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" dua="true" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZxH4I090iVscasYw8nrbU_gOWgEneY0f8-GxJyCfF0h_PVZWKB3FIQikHp2EVDq95MAH4urR8gnik0puNxnXLy6feTQPjGc0k-juY4l_tiq7u5-aY5x1ifFY4RJob4T4Gm-qDlFxnJpFJ/s400/cockpit+table+before.JPG" width="357"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can see how proud the wood grain is, and how the pores of the teak have gone black.</td></tr>
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I started by stripping and scraping 95% of the varnish off, then spent an evening sanding the table back to a smooth surface. I'm using plain old spar varnish, because this table resides under a cover, and a flawless finish is more important to me than durability.<br>
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I should have some "in progress" photos soon.<br>
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<b>Update 2/12/13</b><br>
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Work is underway - a lot of sanding<br>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_VP9RK1tU-G-NSdgXOu6BKH-quXIpEn7UHnK-adRluRMe4jNcr3RZZAeqr7uqzNzVPKOGXBudVL0YtDXr19Bx6887e-0IztCrsHB0CV3EvqAYFIhV5C-zNvPr6qtg5SAFolutg37rXn8m/s1600/cockpit+table+ongoing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_VP9RK1tU-G-NSdgXOu6BKH-quXIpEn7UHnK-adRluRMe4jNcr3RZZAeqr7uqzNzVPKOGXBudVL0YtDXr19Bx6887e-0IztCrsHB0CV3EvqAYFIhV5C-zNvPr6qtg5SAFolutg37rXn8m/s400/cockpit+table+ongoing.JPG" width="373"></a></div>
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UPDATE 13/12/13<br>
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7 coats of varnish, sanding lightly with 320grit paper between each coat. Varying temperatures and conditions have caused me difficulty, as I have had to thin or not thin on a 'best guess' basis. I will need 2 or 3 more perfect applications to get the result I want (10 coats total). It is extraordinarliy-difficult to get a mirror-smooth finish...I don't know how the pros do it.<br>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXvhsDt5fllisIMwSU1_kd7cfpwCakxF2CwiMGHGDG9CxdyqhHlal5-s9U5_OP1dGa_4MW6kXrP50-XmnJe6H1Ij3FkzNGyolZz8Eyxg1pbBiwG2vLTMDHC-1QfhrXvekbLxJhSGojgd0H/s1600/cockpit+table+almost+done.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" dua="true" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXvhsDt5fllisIMwSU1_kd7cfpwCakxF2CwiMGHGDG9CxdyqhHlal5-s9U5_OP1dGa_4MW6kXrP50-XmnJe6H1Ij3FkzNGyolZz8Eyxg1pbBiwG2vLTMDHC-1QfhrXvekbLxJhSGojgd0H/s640/cockpit+table+almost+done.JPG" width="640"></a></div>
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UPDATE 17/12/13<br>
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DONE!<br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifUP7-KEw7B5ni-ipg5ZXszABQha0XzoNSzrr5t5l3vysf_lksNt7yyqIdSVzRG8o0haCqXYUP6DrYUSMpqynfhK6BJvJHxD0giIUyRZnF13GMI2EyHyp_X8uCwfGsDXn_2L4POQUQcjrZ/s1600/table+finished.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifUP7-KEw7B5ni-ipg5ZXszABQha0XzoNSzrr5t5l3vysf_lksNt7yyqIdSVzRG8o0haCqXYUP6DrYUSMpqynfhK6BJvJHxD0giIUyRZnF13GMI2EyHyp_X8uCwfGsDXn_2L4POQUQcjrZ/s640/table+finished.JPG" width="558"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and that's 10 coats</td></tr>
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...mandatory before and after...<br>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-t5Wl0vVjltyr5Fqx1y14uqDabATzS6cFVYCT_OagPXjgM8XAYeOIsPEBaKLKG9oDZNdQvuwvxYzf_NW7nLnOb3VrZ89_TiniWCXrh0ahgNChoYZ5r_TIMF0AREXk1CXlqAUv_GCZyCSh/s1600/Cockpit+table+before.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-t5Wl0vVjltyr5Fqx1y14uqDabATzS6cFVYCT_OagPXjgM8XAYeOIsPEBaKLKG9oDZNdQvuwvxYzf_NW7nLnOb3VrZ89_TiniWCXrh0ahgNChoYZ5r_TIMF0AREXk1CXlqAUv_GCZyCSh/s400/Cockpit+table+before.JPG" width="357"></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQxrbkkN0xx80OCv94jskuUFPp78kX_J0eTmyVBXZPQ5dXTN__7nJnOzgJBitK5zLSjaF0S20wxl7WtidKW4J4tG6XkkbtYYzE5b0q6Zmox5Xkk0k8QhsdWqBPNDb2DweWbJcF36WeKalA/s1600/table+finished+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQxrbkkN0xx80OCv94jskuUFPp78kX_J0eTmyVBXZPQ5dXTN__7nJnOzgJBitK5zLSjaF0S20wxl7WtidKW4J4tG6XkkbtYYzE5b0q6Zmox5Xkk0k8QhsdWqBPNDb2DweWbJcF36WeKalA/s400/table+finished+2.JPG" width="341"></a><br><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBoqQG9A3cblOtWQ-kTtdvk0n2wDqHbJ6kuPcoeG2SvFGQetTUUvqqO103PGYp3SSBTaYEwR_KKK_0zbQJ8VtqzQTvNv6deV6GLu-4VkRW7HdOvk4XjH4J2VhXTUay-U34ebFEy_BDDRTS/s640/blogger-image-2015568902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBoqQG9A3cblOtWQ-kTtdvk0n2wDqHbJ6kuPcoeG2SvFGQetTUUvqqO103PGYp3SSBTaYEwR_KKK_0zbQJ8VtqzQTvNv6deV6GLu-4VkRW7HdOvk4XjH4J2VhXTUay-U34ebFEy_BDDRTS/s640/blogger-image-2015568902.jpg"></a></div><br></td></tr>
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